Dyeing your hair can be a fun way to express yourself, refresh your look, or even cover up those pesky grays. But sometimes, you might decide you want to go lighter, brighter, or back to your natural color after a dye job. That’s when the question arises: what happens if you bleach over dyed hair? The answer, unfortunately, isn’t always straightforward. It can range from achieving your desired shade to a hair disaster of epic proportions. This comprehensive guide will delve into the complexities of bleaching dyed hair, covering everything from potential outcomes to essential preventative measures and recovery strategies.
The Chemistry of Hair Dye and Bleach: An Unstable Relationship
Before diving into the specifics, it’s essential to understand the fundamental chemistry involved. Hair dye and bleach work through different mechanisms, and combining them can lead to unpredictable results.
How Hair Dye Works
Permanent hair dye typically contains ammonia and a developer (usually hydrogen peroxide). The ammonia opens the hair cuticle, the outermost protective layer, allowing the dye molecules to penetrate the hair shaft. The developer then oxidizes the natural melanin (pigment) in your hair and deposits the artificial color. Semi-permanent and demi-permanent dyes work similarly, but they don’t penetrate as deeply and gradually fade over time.
How Bleach Works
Bleach, also containing hydrogen peroxide, works by oxidizing the melanin in your hair, effectively lightening it. The higher the volume of the developer used with the bleach, the more melanin is removed, resulting in a lighter shade. Bleach also damages the hair’s protein structure, which can lead to dryness, brittleness, and breakage.
The Problem with Layering Bleach on Dye
When you bleach over dyed hair, you’re essentially adding another layer of chemical processing on top of hair that has already been altered. This can create a number of problems. The dye molecules can interfere with the bleaching process, resulting in uneven lightening or unwanted tones. Furthermore, the combined chemical assault can severely weaken the hair, making it prone to damage.
Potential Outcomes of Bleaching Dyed Hair
The results of bleaching over dyed hair are highly variable and depend on several factors, including the type of dye used, the condition of your hair, the bleach strength, and the duration of the application.
Uneven Lift and Patchy Results
One of the most common issues is uneven lifting. The dye molecules can block the bleach from evenly penetrating the hair shaft. This can result in some sections lightening faster than others, leading to a patchy and uneven appearance. For example, if your roots weren’t dyed or the color has faded there, they will lighten faster than the dyed hair, leaving a stark contrast.
Brassiness and Unwanted Tones
Bleach often reveals underlying warm tones in the hair, such as orange and yellow. If you’re bleaching over dyed hair, these tones can be exacerbated. The specific dye used previously can also influence the resulting color. For instance, if you dyed your hair red, bleaching it might result in a stubborn orange or pink hue. Neutralizing these unwanted tones often requires using a toner, which deposits pigment to counteract the brassiness.
Damage and Breakage
As mentioned earlier, bleaching is inherently damaging to the hair. Adding dye into the mix only compounds the problem. Over-processed hair can become dry, brittle, and prone to breakage. In severe cases, the hair can even become gummy or elastic, indicating significant protein damage. This can result in hair loss and stunted growth if not carefully treated. Always assess your hair’s health before bleaching and consider protein treatments.
Color Banding
Color banding refers to the appearance of distinct bands of color along the hair shaft. This often occurs when different sections of the hair have been dyed multiple times, creating overlapping layers of color. Bleaching over these bands can further accentuate the variations, resulting in a multi-toned, uneven look. Careful application and strategic lightening techniques are essential to avoid color banding.
Factors Affecting the Outcome
Several factors play a critical role in determining the success or failure of bleaching over dyed hair. Understanding these factors can help you make informed decisions and minimize the risk of damage.
Type of Hair Dye Used
The type of dye used previously significantly impacts the bleaching process. Semi-permanent dyes are typically easier to remove or lighten than permanent dyes, as they don’t penetrate as deeply into the hair shaft. Permanent dyes, on the other hand, can be more resistant to bleach and may require multiple applications. Direct dyes, like bright reds, blues, and greens, can be particularly challenging to remove with bleach, often leaving behind stubborn stains.
Condition of Your Hair
The overall health of your hair is another crucial factor. If your hair is already dry, damaged, or over-processed, bleaching it can push it over the edge. Healthy, strong hair is better able to withstand the chemical stress of bleaching. Consider repairing any damage with conditioning treatments before attempting to bleach your hair.
Bleach Strength (Developer Volume)
The volume of the developer used with the bleach determines its lifting power. Higher volumes (e.g., 30 or 40 volume) lighten the hair more quickly but also cause more damage. Lower volumes (e.g., 10 or 20 volume) are gentler but may require multiple applications to achieve the desired level of lightness. It’s generally recommended to use the lowest volume developer necessary to achieve your goals, especially when working with dyed hair.
Application Technique
The way the bleach is applied can also influence the outcome. Even and thorough application is essential to avoid patchiness and banding. Sectioning the hair carefully and applying the bleach precisely to each section is crucial. It’s also important to avoid overlapping the bleach onto previously lightened areas, as this can cause further damage.
Processing Time
The amount of time the bleach is left on the hair affects the level of lift and the amount of damage. Over-processing can lead to severe breakage and even hair loss. Regularly check the hair during the bleaching process to monitor its progress and avoid over-processing.
Preparing Your Hair for Bleaching: A Proactive Approach
If you’re determined to bleach your dyed hair, taking steps to prepare your hair beforehand can significantly improve your chances of success and minimize damage.
Deep Conditioning Treatments
Weeks leading up to bleaching, incorporate deep conditioning treatments into your hair care routine. These treatments help to hydrate and strengthen the hair, making it more resilient to the chemical stress of bleaching. Look for products containing ingredients like keratin, amino acids, and natural oils. Deep conditioning treatments help fortify the hair shaft and prevent breakage.
Protein Treatments
Protein treatments help to repair damaged protein structures in the hair. If your hair is already damaged or brittle, consider using a protein treatment a week or two before bleaching. Be careful not to overuse protein treatments, as they can make the hair stiff and brittle if applied too frequently.
Avoid Heat Styling
Heat styling, such as using curling irons or straighteners, can further damage the hair. Minimize heat styling in the weeks leading up to bleaching to give your hair a chance to recover. If you must use heat, always use a heat protectant spray.
Patch Test
Before applying bleach to your entire head, perform a patch test on a small, inconspicuous section of your hair. This will allow you to see how your hair reacts to the bleach and identify any potential problems before they become widespread. A strand test gives you a preview of the final result.
Consult a Professional
If you’re unsure about bleaching your dyed hair yourself, it’s always best to consult a professional hair stylist. They can assess the condition of your hair, recommend the appropriate bleaching technique, and help you achieve your desired results without causing excessive damage. Professionals have the knowledge and experience to minimize risk.
Bleaching Process: Step-by-Step Guide
If you decide to bleach your dyed hair at home, follow these steps carefully to minimize damage and maximize your chances of success.
Gather Your Supplies
You’ll need the following supplies: bleach powder, developer (choose the appropriate volume based on your hair’s condition and desired level of lift), a mixing bowl, a tint brush, gloves, a towel to protect your clothing, hair clips, and a timer.
Mix the Bleach
Follow the instructions on the bleach packaging to mix the powder and developer in the correct proportions. Be sure to mix thoroughly to avoid lumps.
Section Your Hair
Divide your hair into four sections, clipping each section out of the way. This will help you apply the bleach evenly and thoroughly.
Apply the Bleach
Starting with the back sections, apply the bleach to small, thin sections of hair using the tint brush. Apply the bleach evenly, starting at the roots and working your way down to the ends. Be careful not to overlap the bleach onto previously lightened areas.
Monitor the Processing Time
Check the hair regularly during the bleaching process to monitor its progress. The processing time will vary depending on the strength of the bleach and the condition of your hair. Do not exceed the maximum recommended processing time on the bleach packaging.
Rinse and Tone
Once the hair has reached the desired level of lightness, rinse thoroughly with cool water. Then, apply a toner to neutralize any unwanted tones, such as brassiness or yellow hues. Follow the instructions on the toner packaging.
Deep Condition Again
After toning, apply a deep conditioning treatment to help restore moisture and strength to the hair. Leave the treatment on for the recommended time, then rinse thoroughly.
Post-Bleach Care: Repairing and Maintaining Your Hair
After bleaching your dyed hair, it’s essential to take extra care to repair any damage and maintain its health.
Hydrating Shampoos and Conditioners
Use hydrating shampoos and conditioners specifically designed for damaged or color-treated hair. These products help to replenish moisture and strengthen the hair. Avoid using shampoos containing sulfates, as these can strip the hair of its natural oils.
Leave-In Conditioners
Apply a leave-in conditioner after washing your hair to provide extra hydration and protection. Look for products containing ingredients like argan oil, coconut oil, or shea butter.
Regular Trims
Get regular trims to remove any split ends and prevent further breakage. Trimming the hair every 6-8 weeks can help to maintain its overall health and appearance.
Limit Heat Styling
Continue to minimize heat styling and always use a heat protectant spray when you do. Consider air-drying your hair whenever possible.
Hair Masks
Incorporate weekly hair masks into your routine to provide deep conditioning and repair. You can use store-bought masks or make your own using ingredients like avocado, honey, and olive oil.
When to Seek Professional Help
While it’s possible to bleach over dyed hair at home, there are certain situations where seeking professional help is strongly recommended.
Significant Damage
If your hair is already severely damaged, brittle, or prone to breakage, attempting to bleach it yourself could exacerbate the problem. A professional stylist can assess the condition of your hair and recommend the safest and most effective approach.
Complex Color Corrections
If you’re trying to achieve a significant color change or correct a previous color mistake, it’s best to leave it to the professionals. Color correction can be complex and requires specialized knowledge and skills.
Unsure About the Process
If you’re unsure about any aspect of the bleaching process, or if you’re feeling nervous about doing it yourself, don’t hesitate to consult a professional. They can answer your questions, provide guidance, and help you achieve your desired results safely.
Bleaching over dyed hair can be a risky endeavor, but with careful planning, proper preparation, and a gentle approach, it’s possible to achieve your desired results without causing excessive damage. Remember to prioritize the health of your hair and seek professional help when needed. A successful outcome requires a strategic approach, patience, and understanding of the chemical processes involved.
What are the most common risks when bleaching over dyed hair?
The primary risks of bleaching over dyed hair revolve around unpredictable color results and severe hair damage. The underlying dye can react unpredictably with the bleach, leading to uneven lifting, brassy tones, or even completely unexpected colors like green or blue. This is especially true for darker dyes or those containing metallic salts.
Furthermore, the process can weaken the hair shaft significantly. The chemical process of both dyeing and bleaching strips the hair of its natural oils and proteins. Combining these processes back-to-back further compromises the hair’s integrity, making it prone to breakage, split ends, and a generally straw-like texture. Overlap of bleach on previously bleached areas is a major culprit for excessive damage.
How can I minimize damage when bleaching over previously dyed hair?
Prioritize the health of your hair before, during, and after the bleaching process. Start by deep conditioning treatments for several weeks leading up to bleaching to strengthen the hair. Avoid using heat styling tools like straighteners and curling irons as much as possible. A protein treatment can also help rebuild the hair structure before the chemical process.
During the bleaching process, use a low-volume developer (10 or 20 volume) to minimize damage. Strand test is crucial to assess how your hair will react and prevent any major color surprises. Carefully monitor the bleaching process and avoid leaving the bleach on for longer than necessary. Always use a reputable brand of bleach and follow the instructions meticulously.
What is a strand test and why is it important before bleaching over dyed hair?
A strand test involves applying the bleach mixture to a small, hidden section of your hair, typically at the nape of the neck. This allows you to see how your hair will react to the bleach in terms of both color lifting and potential damage, without risking your entire head of hair. It’s a miniature version of the full process that offers valuable insights.
This test is especially critical when bleaching over dyed hair because the underlying dye can drastically affect the outcome. The strand test reveals whether the dye will lift evenly, what undertones will be exposed, and if your hair can withstand the bleaching process without excessive breakage. Based on the results, you can adjust your bleaching strategy, potentially using a lower developer volume or a shorter processing time.
What if my hair turns orange or yellow after bleaching over dyed hair?
Orange or yellow tones are common when bleaching over previously dyed hair, especially if the dye was dark. This is because the bleach has lifted the artificial color but hasn’t fully lifted the underlying warm pigments in your hair. These warm tones are particularly stubborn and require additional steps to neutralize.
The most common solution is to use a toner designed to counteract brassiness. Blue-based toners neutralize orange tones, while purple-based toners neutralize yellow tones. Choose the toner appropriate for the specific brassy undertone you’re dealing with. You might need to apply the toner more than once for optimal results, but avoid over-toning, as this can lead to muddy or ashy tones.
How can I fix uneven color after bleaching over dyed hair?
Uneven color after bleaching dyed hair can result from inconsistent application, varying porosity, or different levels of dye saturation throughout the hair. Identifying the cause is the first step. Was the bleach applied evenly? Are some areas drier or more damaged than others? Was the dye applied consistently in the first place?
Depending on the severity, you have several options. For minor inconsistencies, a color-depositing shampoo or conditioner can help even out the tone. More significant variations might require a color correction service from a professional stylist, who can use targeted bleaching, lowlights, or toning to create a more uniform color. Remember, another bleaching session is often too harsh and should be avoided unless absolutely necessary.
What aftercare steps are crucial for bleached-over-dyed hair?
Aftercare is paramount for restoring moisture and strength to hair that has been bleached over previously dyed hair. The intensive chemical processing can leave hair dry, brittle, and prone to breakage. Immediately after bleaching and toning, use a deep conditioning treatment specifically designed for damaged hair.
Incorporate regular moisturizing masks, leave-in conditioners, and hair oils into your routine. Minimize heat styling and always use a heat protectant spray before using any hot tools. Consider switching to a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner to prevent stripping the hair of its natural oils. Regular trims will also help eliminate split ends and maintain the overall health of your hair.
When should I seek professional help instead of attempting to bleach over dyed hair myself?
If your hair is already damaged, very dark, or if you’re aiming for a significant color change, seeking professional help is highly recommended. Trying to correct complex color issues at home can easily lead to further damage and unsatisfactory results. A professional stylist has the expertise and experience to assess your hair’s condition and formulate a plan that minimizes damage while achieving your desired look.
Furthermore, if you’re unsure about the process or lack experience with bleaching or dyeing hair, consulting a professional is the safest option. They have access to professional-grade products and techniques that are often unavailable to consumers. A professional colorist can also provide personalized advice and guidance on maintaining your hair’s health after the treatment.