Understanding the underlying colours of hair is crucial for anyone venturing into the world of hair colouring, whether you’re a seasoned professional or a DIY enthusiast. It’s the foundation upon which beautiful, predictable, and lasting colour transformations are built. This hidden world beneath the surface tone determines how hair will react to dyes, lighteners, and toners, and mastering this knowledge is key to achieving your desired results. Ignoring these underlying pigments can lead to unwanted brassiness, muddy tones, or simply a colour that fades faster than expected.
The Foundation: Natural Hair Pigments and Melanin
Our hair’s natural colour comes from pigments called melanin, produced by cells called melanocytes in the hair follicle. There are two primary types of melanin that determine hair colour: eumelanin and pheomelanin.
Eumelanin is responsible for the brown and black tones in hair. The amount of eumelanin present dictates the depth of the hair colour, ranging from the darkest black to the lightest brown. More eumelanin means darker hair, while less eumelanin results in lighter shades of brown.
Pheomelanin, on the other hand, is responsible for red and yellow tones. Everyone has some amount of pheomelanin in their hair, even those with seemingly “cool” or ashy shades. The presence of pheomelanin is what gives hair warmth, and it’s this pigment that often causes unwanted brassiness when lightening. The ratio of eumelanin to pheomelanin determines the overall hair colour and its underlying warmth.
The Melanin Combination: Creating a Spectrum of Shades
The combination of eumelanin and pheomelanin in varying proportions creates the vast spectrum of natural hair colours we see. Pure black hair has a very high concentration of eumelanin and little to no pheomelanin. Blonde hair has very little eumelanin and a moderate amount of pheomelanin. Red hair has a high concentration of pheomelanin and a lower amount of eumelanin. Brown hair, the most common hair colour, contains a balance of both eumelanin and pheomelanin.
The density and distribution of these melanin granules also play a role in the perceived colour of the hair. More densely packed granules create a deeper, richer colour, while more dispersed granules result in a lighter, more muted tone.
Deciphering the Colour Wheel: Understanding Undertones
The concept of undertones is essential for understanding the underlying colours of hair. Undertones are the subtle hues that are revealed when hair is lightened or when the dominant colour fades. They are the warm or cool tones that peek through and influence the overall appearance of the hair.
The colour wheel is an invaluable tool for understanding the relationship between different tones and how they interact with each other. It helps you to predict how a particular colour will react when applied to hair with specific underlying pigments.
The Warm Undertones: Red, Orange, and Yellow
Warm undertones are the most common and are usually the biggest challenge for those trying to achieve cool or neutral hair colours. These tones are particularly prominent when lightening hair, as the eumelanin is broken down first, leaving the underlying pheomelanin to shine through.
Red undertones are typically seen in darker hair colours, particularly dark brown and black. As these colours are lifted, the red pigments are often the first to become visible. This is why dark hair often pulls reddish or auburn when lightened.
Orange undertones are more common in medium brown hair. As the hair is lightened, the red pigments fade, and orange tones become more apparent. This is a common stage in the lightening process and often requires toning to neutralize the unwanted warmth.
Yellow undertones are typically seen in lighter brown and blonde hair. They are the last of the warm pigments to be revealed during lightening and can be particularly stubborn to remove. This is why achieving a truly platinum blonde can be so difficult, as it requires neutralizing all of the underlying yellow tones.
The Cool Undertones: Blue, Green, and Violet
Cool undertones are less common than warm undertones but are equally important to consider. These tones are more often seen in naturally ashy or cool-toned hair colours. They can also be intentionally added to hair through toning and colouring processes.
Blue undertones are rare in natural hair colour but can be achieved through the use of blue-based dyes and toners. They are often used to neutralize unwanted orange tones in darker hair.
Green undertones are also uncommon but can sometimes be seen in very dark brown or black hair. They can also appear if a colourist is not careful when using ash-based dyes, especially on hair that already has green undertones.
Violet undertones are often used to neutralize yellow tones in blonde hair, creating a cooler, brighter blonde. They are a key ingredient in many purple shampoos and toners.
The Hair Colour Levels: A Scale for Understanding Depth
Hair colour is typically categorized into levels, ranging from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde). Understanding these levels is crucial for predicting how hair will lighten and what underlying pigments will be revealed at each stage.
Each level corresponds to a specific set of underlying pigments. For example, level 1 hair (black) will typically have red undertones when lightened. Level 5 hair (light brown) will usually have orange undertones. Level 8 hair (dark blonde) will likely have yellow undertones.
Understanding the hair colour levels allows you to choose the right products and techniques to achieve your desired colour without ending up with unwanted brassiness or muddy tones. It also helps you to determine how much lift you need to achieve your target shade.
The Lightening Process: Unveiling the Underlying Colours
The lightening process involves using chemicals, typically hydrogen peroxide and ammonia, to break down the melanin in the hair shaft. As the melanin is broken down, the underlying pigments are revealed in a predictable sequence.
Darker hair colours will go through multiple stages of underlying colours as they are lightened. For example, dark brown hair will typically go through red, orange, and yellow stages before reaching a pale blonde.
Lighter hair colours will have fewer underlying pigments to contend with, but they can still be challenging to lighten evenly and without damage. Even blonde hair can have stubborn yellow undertones that require careful toning.
The speed and intensity of the lightening process can also affect the underlying colours that are revealed. A slower, more gradual lightening process can often result in less damage and more predictable results.
Neutralizing Unwanted Tones: The Art of Toning
Toning is the process of using a colourant to neutralize unwanted undertones in the hair. Toners are typically demi-permanent colours that deposit pigment onto the hair without significantly lifting the base colour.
The colour wheel is your best friend when it comes to toning. To neutralize a particular undertone, you need to use a toner that contains the opposite colour on the colour wheel. For example, to neutralize red tones, you would use a green-based toner. To neutralize orange tones, you would use a blue-based toner. To neutralize yellow tones, you would use a violet-based toner.
Choosing the right toner is crucial for achieving your desired result. You need to consider the level of your hair, the intensity of the unwanted undertones, and your target shade. Over-toning can result in muddy or dull hair, while under-toning will not effectively neutralize the unwanted warmth.
Selecting the Right Toner: A Step-by-Step Guide
- Identify the Underlying Tones: Determine the dominant undertone present in the hair (red, orange, yellow, etc.).
- Consult the Colour Wheel: Identify the colour that neutralizes the unwanted undertone.
- Choose the Toner Level: Select a toner that is appropriate for the level of your hair.
- Consider the Intensity: Choose a toner with the appropriate intensity to effectively neutralize the undertone without over-toning.
- Perform a Strand Test: Before applying the toner to your entire head, perform a strand test to ensure that you achieve the desired result.
Practical Applications: Achieving Your Dream Hair Colour
Understanding the underlying colours of hair is not just theoretical knowledge; it has practical applications in all aspects of hair colouring.
When choosing a hair dye, consider your hair’s natural level and its underlying pigments. If you have warm undertones, you may want to choose a dye with cool or neutral tones to prevent brassiness.
When lightening your hair, be prepared to tone to neutralize the unwanted warmth that will inevitably be revealed. Have a toner on hand that is appropriate for the level and undertones of your hair.
When maintaining your hair colour, use colour-safe shampoos and conditioners to prevent fading and brassiness. Consider using a purple shampoo or conditioner to neutralize yellow tones in blonde hair.
Always consult with a professional colourist if you are unsure about any aspect of the hair colouring process. They can assess your hair’s unique characteristics and recommend the best products and techniques to achieve your desired results.
By understanding and respecting the underlying colours of hair, you can unlock the secrets to beautiful, vibrant, and lasting colour transformations. It’s about working with your hair’s natural tendencies, not against them, to create a look that is both stunning and sustainable.
What are underlying pigments in hair, and why are they important?
Underlying pigments, also known as contributing pigments, are the warm tones revealed when hair is lightened. They’re naturally present in everyone’s hair, regardless of the surface color. These pigments typically consist of a mix of red, orange, and yellow melanin, with the proportion of each varying depending on the individual’s natural hair color level.
Understanding these underlying pigments is crucial for achieving predictable and desired hair color results. When lightening hair, the stylist must account for these warm tones emerging. Failure to do so can lead to brassiness or unwanted warmth. By knowing the specific pigments at each level, stylists can effectively neutralize or enhance them to create beautiful and balanced color transformations.
How do underlying pigments differ across different hair colors (e.g., dark brown vs. blonde)?
The main difference in underlying pigments across various hair colors lies in their concentration and the dominant hue. Darker hair colors, such as dark brown or black, possess a higher concentration of all underlying pigments, particularly red. As a result, lightening dark hair often reveals strong red and orange tones. Think of it like peeling layers; the darker the original colour, the more intense the warm undertones unveiled during lightening.
Conversely, lighter hair colors, like blonde or light brown, have a lower concentration of underlying pigments. While red, orange, and yellow are still present, they are less intense. Lightening blonde hair typically reveals more yellow and pale yellow tones. This is why it’s generally easier to achieve cooler blonde shades on naturally lighter hair, as less neutralization of warmer pigments is required.
What role do underlying pigments play in hair coloring processes like bleaching or dyeing?
Underlying pigments are a central consideration in both bleaching and dyeing hair. Bleaching aims to lighten hair by removing melanin, thereby revealing the underlying pigments. The goal is to lift the hair to a specific level where the desired undertone for the final color is present or easily neutralized. The colorist must carefully control the bleaching process to avoid over-processing and damage while achieving the correct underlying pigment level.
When dyeing hair, underlying pigments interact with the chosen dye. The final color result is a combination of the artificial dye pigments and the existing underlying pigments. For example, applying a cool ash blonde dye to hair with strong orange underlying pigments might result in a muddy or uneven tone if the orange isn’t properly neutralized beforehand. Understanding this interaction is key to achieving the desired shade and avoiding unwanted color variations.
How can a stylist determine the underlying pigments present in a client’s hair?
A stylist can determine the underlying pigments present in a client’s hair through a combination of visual assessment and strand testing. Visual assessment involves examining the natural hair color and identifying its level on a hair color chart. This provides a general idea of the expected underlying pigments, with darker levels typically having more red and orange tones.
A strand test is a more precise method. It involves applying lightener or color to a small, inconspicuous section of hair to observe how it lifts and what underlying pigments are revealed. This allows the stylist to accurately assess the individual’s hair and formulate a customized color plan, taking into account the specific pigments that need to be neutralized or enhanced to achieve the desired result. Observing the hair’s reaction during the test is crucial for a successful color application.
What techniques can be used to neutralize unwanted underlying pigments in hair?
Neutralizing unwanted underlying pigments involves using complementary colors. The color wheel serves as a guide: orange is neutralized by blue, yellow is neutralized by violet, and red is neutralized by green. Toners, color-depositing shampoos, and glosses containing these neutralizing pigments are commonly used.
For example, if a client’s hair has unwanted orange tones after lightening, a blue-based toner can be applied to counteract the warmth. The strength and application time of the neutralizing product must be carefully controlled to avoid over-toning or creating unwanted secondary tones. A thorough understanding of color theory and the specific underlying pigments present is essential for effective neutralization.
Can underlying pigments impact the longevity of a hair color?
Yes, underlying pigments can significantly impact the longevity of a hair color. If the underlying pigments are not properly accounted for during the coloring process, they can resurface as the artificial dye fades, leading to brassiness or unwanted warm tones reappearing. This is especially true for cool-toned colors applied to hair with strong underlying red or orange pigments.
To improve color longevity, stylists often recommend using color-safe shampoos and conditioners that help to seal the cuticle and prevent the dye from fading quickly. They might also suggest incorporating color-depositing products into the client’s at-home routine to refresh the tone and counteract any emerging brassiness. Regular toning treatments can also help to maintain the desired color and keep the underlying pigments in check.
Are there ways to enhance or accentuate underlying pigments for a desired hair color effect?
Absolutely, underlying pigments can be intentionally enhanced to create warmth and dimension in hair color. Instead of neutralizing them, stylists can use techniques that accentuate the existing warm tones. For example, a red-based gloss can be applied to enhance underlying red pigments, creating a richer, more vibrant auburn or red-brown shade. Gold or copper tones can also be used to amplify yellow and orange undertones, resulting in a sun-kissed or honeyed effect.
Another way to enhance underlying pigments is through strategic placement of highlights or lowlights. By placing warmer tones in areas where the natural underlying pigments are already present, stylists can create a multi-dimensional effect that adds depth and warmth to the hair. This approach works particularly well for clients who desire a more natural-looking color with subtle variations.