The question of whether to decant very old wines is one that divides wine lovers and experts alike. It’s a decision laden with potential pitfalls and possible rewards, demanding a deep understanding of the wine’s history, condition, and potential evolution in the glass. There’s no simple yes or no answer; it’s a nuanced exploration of risk versus reward.
Understanding Old Wine: A Journey Through Time
Old wines, especially those aged for several decades, are living documents of their vintage. They’ve evolved through a complex series of chemical reactions, transforming from vibrant youth to something more contemplative and often fragile. The tannins, once harsh and assertive, have softened and integrated. The fruit flavors, once bright and primary, have morphed into tertiary aromas of earth, leather, spice, and undergrowth.
Sediment is a natural byproduct of this aging process. As the wine matures, tannins and pigments polymerize and fall out of suspension, creating a deposit at the bottom of the bottle. This sediment is not harmful, but it can be bitter and unpleasant to drink, obscuring the wine’s delicate flavors and textures.
However, it is not only the sediment that makes decanting a question mark. Over time, old wines become incredibly sensitive to oxygen. This is because the compounds that protect the wine from oxidation have diminished, making them vulnerable to rapid degradation when exposed to air.
The Fragility of Age
A critical aspect to consider is the inherent fragility of old wines. Decades of slow evolution in the bottle have left them vulnerable. These complex aromas and flavors can dissipate quickly if exposed to too much oxygen too quickly. What might seem like a positive effect initially can quickly turn into a dulling of the wine’s character.
The structure of the wine can also be compromised. The once robust tannins that provided backbone may have softened to a point where they no longer offer sufficient support. Excessive aeration can further weaken the wine, leading to a flabby and unstructured experience.
The Case for Decanting: Clearing the Path to Enjoyment
The primary argument for decanting old wines centers around the removal of sediment. This is a valid and compelling reason. No one wants to chew on gritty particles while trying to savor the nuances of a well-aged Bordeaux or Burgundy.
Decanting allows for a clean pour, separating the clear wine from the sediment left behind in the bottle. This can significantly enhance the drinking experience, allowing the wine’s complex flavors and aromas to shine through without being marred by bitterness or textural unpleasantness.
Gentle Aeration: A Double-Edged Sword
While removing sediment is the main goal, decanting also introduces a small amount of oxygen to the wine. In some cases, this gentle aeration can be beneficial, helping to awaken dormant aromas and soften any remaining tannins. However, the key here is gentle.
The amount of aeration required for an old wine is significantly less than that needed for a young, tannic wine. The goal is not to aggressively oxygenate the wine, but rather to delicately coax out its character. This requires careful monitoring and tasting.
The Case Against Decanting: Risks and Potential Pitfalls
The potential for oxidation is the biggest risk associated with decanting old wines. As mentioned earlier, these wines are particularly susceptible to the negative effects of oxygen exposure.
Over-aeration can lead to a rapid decline in the wine’s aromas and flavors, resulting in a dull, lifeless, and vinegary liquid. What was once a complex and nuanced wine can quickly transform into a shadow of its former self.
The Risk of Unmasking Flaws
Decanting can also inadvertently unmask flaws that were previously hidden. A slight hint of volatile acidity, for example, might be masked by the wine’s complexity in the bottle. However, once exposed to air, this flaw can become amplified and overwhelming, rendering the wine undrinkable.
Similarly, decanting can expose the wine to a greater temperature fluctuation, which can also negatively affect the delicate aromas and flavors. It is crucial to maintain a stable and cool temperature throughout the decanting and serving process.
The Art of Decanting Old Wines: A Step-by-Step Guide
If you decide to decant an old wine, approach the process with caution and respect. It’s a delicate dance that requires careful preparation and execution. Here is a recommended method:
- Preparation: Stand the bottle upright for at least 24 hours, and preferably several days, before decanting. This allows the sediment to settle at the bottom of the bottle.
- Environment: Choose a well-lit area, ideally with a light source shining from below. This will allow you to clearly see the sediment as you pour.
- Decanter Selection: Select a clean and narrow-necked decanter. A narrow neck will minimize the surface area exposed to air.
- The Pour: Gently and slowly pour the wine into the decanter, keeping a close eye on the neck of the bottle. Stop pouring when you see sediment beginning to move towards the opening.
- Observation: Observe the wine in the decanter. Note its color, clarity, and aromas.
- Tasting: Taste the wine immediately after decanting. This will allow you to assess its initial condition and determine whether further aeration is necessary.
- Patience (or Immediacy): If the wine seems tight and closed, allow it to sit in the decanter for a short period, perhaps 15-30 minutes, and taste again. If it is already expressive, serve it immediately.
- Continuous Monitoring: Continuously monitor the wine’s evolution in the decanter. Taste it every few minutes to ensure that it is not declining. If you notice any signs of deterioration, stop aerating and serve the wine immediately.
Alternative Approaches: The “Gentle Pour” and the “Double Decant”
There are alternatives to traditional decanting that can further minimize the risk of oxidation. The “gentle pour” involves carefully pouring the wine directly from the bottle into the glass, stopping when you reach the sediment. This method requires a steady hand and careful attention, but it avoids exposing the entire bottle to air.
Another option is the “double decant.” This involves decanting the wine into a clean decanter, then immediately pouring it back into the original (rinsed) bottle, leaving the sediment behind in the decanter. This method provides a quick separation of the wine from the sediment with minimal aeration.
Factors to Consider: Making the Right Decision
The decision to decant or not to decant should be based on several factors:
- Age of the Wine: The older the wine, the more fragile it is likely to be, and the more cautious you should be with aeration.
- Vintage: Some vintages are naturally more robust and capable of handling aeration than others.
- Grape Variety: Certain grape varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, tend to be more resistant to oxidation than others, such as Pinot Noir.
- Storage Conditions: Wines that have been stored properly are more likely to benefit from decanting than those that have been subjected to temperature fluctuations or other adverse conditions.
- Your Personal Preference: Ultimately, the decision of whether to decant or not is a matter of personal preference. Some wine lovers enjoy the ritual of decanting and the small amount of aeration it provides, while others prefer to avoid the risk of oxidation altogether.
- Bottle variation: Sometimes, even from the same case, bottle variation can drastically affect the wine’s need for aeration or lack thereof.
When in Doubt, Err on the Side of Caution
If you are unsure whether to decant an old wine, it is always best to err on the side of caution. You can always pour a small amount of wine into your glass and swirl it gently to assess its aromas and flavors. If the wine seems closed or muted, you can then decide to decant a small portion and monitor its evolution closely.
It’s better to risk missing out on a small improvement in aeration than to risk ruining an entire bottle of a rare and precious wine.
Conclusion: A Respectful Approach to Wine History
Decanting very old wines is not a simple task, but rather a delicate art. It requires a deep understanding of the wine’s history, condition, and potential evolution, as well as a healthy dose of caution. By considering the factors outlined above and approaching the process with respect, you can increase your chances of unlocking the full potential of these extraordinary wines and enjoying a truly memorable experience. Always remember that the goal is to enhance, not to destroy, the wine’s character. And most importantly, enjoy the journey.
FAQ 1: What are the potential benefits of decanting a very old wine?
Decanting very old wines offers two primary benefits. First, it allows for the separation of sediment, which naturally accumulates over decades of aging. This sediment, while harmless, can be gritty and detract from the wine’s texture and overall enjoyment. Second, decanting can delicately aerate the wine, potentially awakening subtle aromas and flavors that have been subdued during its time in the bottle. This gentle introduction to oxygen can enhance the wine’s complexity and expression, making for a more rewarding tasting experience.
However, it’s crucial to approach decanting old wines with caution. The extended exposure to oxygen can also accelerate the wine’s decline, causing it to fade and lose its charm more quickly than anticipated. The key lies in careful observation and a brief decanting period, just long enough to separate the sediment without over-exposing the wine to the air. Think of it as a delicate dance – aiming to revive the wine’s potential while safeguarding its fragile nature.
FAQ 2: What are the risks associated with decanting a very old wine?
The primary risk of decanting a very old wine lies in its potential for rapid oxidation. Old wines are fragile and often near the end of their lifespan. Prolonged exposure to oxygen can cause them to lose their delicate aromas, flavors, and structure much faster than a younger wine would. What might initially seem like a positive opening up can quickly devolve into a flattened, lifeless experience as the wine loses its complexity and character.
Another potential risk is the physical disruption of the wine. The simple act of pouring can disturb the delicate balance that has developed over decades. The wine’s structures and molecules may be near a precipice, and any unnecessary movement could further deteriorate its quality. If there’s a significant amount of sediment, trying to be too thorough in its removal can also inadvertently damage the wine’s remaining charm, especially if done vigorously.
FAQ 3: How do I know if a very old wine will benefit from decanting?
Determining whether a very old wine will benefit from decanting requires careful observation and assessment. Start by examining the bottle for sediment. If there’s a significant amount of visible sediment, decanting is more likely to be beneficial in improving the drinking experience. Next, consider the wine’s provenance and storage conditions. A well-stored bottle is generally more likely to withstand the decanting process.
Finally, assess the wine’s overall condition. If the cork is in good condition, and the wine has been stored properly, there’s a higher chance that a brief decanting will enhance its aromas and flavors. However, if the cork is crumbling or the wine has been stored in less-than-ideal conditions, it’s best to approach decanting with extreme caution, or even skip it altogether. A quick taste before decanting can provide valuable insight into the wine’s initial state.
FAQ 4: What is the best method for decanting a very old wine?
The best method for decanting a very old wine involves a slow, steady, and gentle approach. Ideally, stand the bottle upright for at least 24 hours before decanting to allow sediment to settle at the bottom. Prepare a clean decanter and a light source, such as a candle or a flashlight, to help you monitor the flow of the wine.
Slowly pour the wine into the decanter, being careful to maintain a constant, even flow. Watch closely as the sediment approaches the neck of the bottle. When you see the first signs of sediment, stop pouring immediately. The goal is to separate the clear wine from the sediment without disturbing the latter. Avoid any shaking or swirling motions that could stir up the sediment. It’s better to leave a small amount of clear wine behind than to risk transferring sediment into the decanter.
FAQ 5: How long should a very old wine be decanted for?
The ideal decanting time for a very old wine is significantly shorter than for a younger wine. In most cases, just long enough to separate the sediment is sufficient – often only a few minutes. The primary goal is sediment removal, not extended aeration. Longer decanting times can be detrimental, leading to rapid oxidation and loss of the wine’s delicate characteristics.
After decanting, observe the wine closely. Taste it periodically to monitor its evolution. If the wine appears to be opening up and becoming more expressive, allow it to sit for a few more minutes. However, if you notice any signs of decline, such as a flattening of aromas or a loss of complexity, consume the wine immediately. Remember, with old wines, the window of opportunity can be very narrow.
FAQ 6: What if the cork breaks when opening a very old wine?
A crumbling cork is a common issue when opening very old wines. If the cork breaks, don’t panic. Carefully remove the remaining pieces from the bottle’s neck, trying to avoid pushing them into the wine. A corkscrew with thin blades or a specialized cork extractor designed for fragile corks can be helpful in these situations.
If small pieces of cork do fall into the wine, don’t attempt to fish them out with a utensil, as this can further disturb the wine. Instead, decant the wine through a fine-mesh sieve or cheesecloth to remove the cork fragments. This will prevent them from affecting the wine’s texture and flavor. Proceed with decanting and tasting as usual, keeping a close watch for any signs of oxidation.
FAQ 7: Are there any specific types of old wines that should never be decanted?
Generally, very fragile wines that are already showing signs of significant age and oxidation should be approached with extreme caution, and decanting might be best avoided. These wines, which may exhibit a pronounced tawny color, faded aromas, and a delicate structure, are already near the end of their lifespan. Exposing them to oxygen through decanting could accelerate their decline and diminish their remaining charm.
Additionally, wines that have been stored in poor conditions or those with damaged corks are less likely to benefit from decanting. The degradation process might have already progressed too far, and any further exposure to air could be detrimental. In such cases, it’s often best to open the wine and taste it immediately, without decanting, to assess its current state. This allows you to appreciate any remaining qualities before they fade completely.