The world of hair color can be a confusing place, filled with technical jargon and seemingly interchangeable terms. One of the most common points of confusion revolves around Shades EQ Processing Solution and developer. Are they the same thing? The short answer is a resounding no. However, understanding why they’re different and what role each plays in the hair coloring process is crucial for achieving the desired results and maintaining healthy hair. This comprehensive guide will delve into the chemistry behind each product, explore their individual functions, and explain why using the wrong one can lead to disastrous outcomes.
Understanding the Role of Developer in Hair Color
Developer, also known as peroxide, is a fundamental component in many permanent and demi-permanent hair color formulas. Its primary function is to open the hair cuticle, allowing the color molecules to penetrate the hair shaft and deposit color. But it doesn’t stop there. Developer also activates the oxidization process that lightens the hair’s natural pigment, making room for the new color. The volume of the developer indicates its strength, reflecting the percentage of hydrogen peroxide it contains.
How Developer Works: The Science Behind the Lift
To truly grasp the importance of developer, it’s essential to understand the chemical reactions it triggers. When developer is mixed with hair color, it releases oxygen. This oxygen reacts with the melanin (the pigment responsible for your hair’s natural color) in the hair shaft, breaking it down and lightening the hair. Simultaneously, the developer works with the ammonia (or ammonia alternative) in the hair color to swell the hair cuticle, allowing the dye molecules to enter and bind to the hair protein.
The higher the volume of developer, the more oxygen is released, and the greater the lightening effect. For example, a 10 volume developer provides minimal lift, while a 40 volume developer offers significant lightening. However, it’s crucial to remember that higher volume developers can also cause more damage to the hair if used improperly.
Different Volumes of Developer and Their Uses
The selection of the appropriate developer volume depends entirely on the desired outcome and the starting hair color. Here’s a quick rundown of common developer volumes and their typical uses:
- 10 Volume: Used for depositing color, refreshing faded color, or blending away minimal gray hair. Provides minimal to no lift.
- 20 Volume: Commonly used for covering gray hair, lifting one to two levels, and achieving a balanced color change.
- 30 Volume: Used for lifting two to three levels. Often used for highlighting and achieving lighter shades.
- 40 Volume: Used for lifting three to four levels. Generally reserved for experienced colorists and used with caution due to its potential for damage.
It’s important to consult with a professional or carefully review the manufacturer’s instructions before using any developer, as the wrong volume can lead to unwanted results or hair damage.
Demystifying Shades EQ Processing Solution
Shades EQ Processing Solution is specifically formulated to be used exclusively with Redken’s Shades EQ Gloss demi-permanent hair color. Unlike developer, it does not contain hydrogen peroxide and therefore does not lift or lighten the hair’s natural pigment. Its primary function is to activate the Shades EQ Gloss formula, allowing it to deposit color, tone, and add shine without altering the hair’s underlying base.
The Purpose of a Processing Solution: Color Without Commitment
The beauty of Shades EQ lies in its demi-permanent nature. It provides a subtle color change that gradually fades over time, minimizing a harsh line of demarcation as the hair grows out. This is largely due to the Processing Solution’s gentle action. It doesn’t aggressively open the hair cuticle like developer, but instead, allows the color molecules to deposit on the outer layers of the hair shaft.
Think of it like a stain rather than a dye. It enhances and enriches the existing color, adding depth, dimension, and a healthy shine. This makes it an ideal choice for toning highlights, refreshing faded color, correcting unwanted tones, or adding a glaze of shine to natural hair.
Why Shades EQ Processing Solution Doesn’t Lift
The absence of hydrogen peroxide in Shades EQ Processing Solution is what prevents it from lifting the hair’s natural pigment. While developer uses oxygen to break down melanin, the Processing Solution relies on a different chemical process to deposit color. This process is gentler on the hair, reducing the risk of damage and maintaining the hair’s integrity.
The key is the acidic pH of Shades EQ. This acidic environment helps to smooth the hair cuticle, locking in the color and creating a reflective surface that enhances shine. It’s a completely different mechanism compared to the oxidizing action of developer.
Key Differences: Shades EQ Processing Solution vs. Developer
Now that we’ve explored the individual roles of Shades EQ Processing Solution and developer, let’s highlight the key differences between them in a more direct way:
- Composition: Developer contains hydrogen peroxide, while Shades EQ Processing Solution does not.
- Function: Developer lightens the hair’s natural pigment and deposits color, while Shades EQ Processing Solution only deposits color and adds shine.
- Lift: Developer provides lift, while Shades EQ Processing Solution provides no lift.
- Hair Damage: Developer has a higher potential for hair damage, especially at higher volumes, while Shades EQ Processing Solution is generally considered to be less damaging.
- Color Longevity: Hair color mixed with developer is typically more permanent, while Shades EQ Gloss provides a demi-permanent color that gradually fades.
- pH Level: Shades EQ has an acidic pH which contributes to shine.
In short, developer is for lightening and coloring, while Shades EQ Processing Solution is for toning, glazing, and adding shine without altering the base color.
The Consequences of Using the Wrong Product
Using developer with Shades EQ Gloss, or vice versa, can lead to undesirable and potentially damaging results. Let’s examine what could happen in each scenario:
Using Developer with Shades EQ Gloss
If you were to mix Shades EQ Gloss with a developer, you might expect to achieve a lighter, brighter color. However, the results are likely to be unpredictable and disappointing. The developer could potentially cause uneven lift, leading to patchy color. The acidic pH of Shades EQ isn’t designed to work with the oxidizing action of developer, so the color deposit might be inconsistent or the resulting color might not be what you anticipated. Moreover, you’re adding an unnecessary level of potential damage to the hair. This is strongly discouraged.
Using Shades EQ Processing Solution with Traditional Hair Color
Conversely, attempting to use Shades EQ Processing Solution with a traditional hair color (one that’s meant to be mixed with developer) will likely result in minimal to no color deposit. The Processing Solution simply doesn’t have the power to open the hair cuticle sufficiently for the color molecules to penetrate and bind to the hair shaft. You’ll essentially be applying a useless mixture to your hair, wasting both time and product. You will not achieve the desired color change, and the hair might feel coated or sticky. This will not work.
When to Use Shades EQ Gloss and When to Use Traditional Hair Color
Understanding the purpose of each product is crucial for making informed decisions about your hair color. Here’s a guideline to help you choose the right approach:
- Use Shades EQ Gloss when:
- You want to tone highlights or balayage.
- You want to refresh faded color.
- You want to correct unwanted tones (e.g., brassiness).
- You want to add shine and dimension to your natural hair color.
- You want a low-commitment color change that gradually fades.
- Use Traditional Hair Color (with developer) when:
- You want to cover gray hair.
- You want to lighten your hair color.
- You want a permanent or long-lasting color change.
- You want to significantly alter your hair’s base color.
Always consult with a professional stylist if you’re unsure which product is best suited for your needs, especially if you’re attempting a significant color change or have damaged hair.
Final Thoughts: Respect the Chemistry
In conclusion, Shades EQ Processing Solution is not the same as developer. They are distinct products with different chemical compositions and serve entirely different purposes in the hair coloring process. Developer is designed to lift and deposit color, while Shades EQ Processing Solution is designed to deposit color, tone, and add shine without lift. Understanding these differences is essential for achieving beautiful, healthy-looking hair and avoiding costly color corrections. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and consult with a professional stylist if you have any doubts. Respecting the chemistry of hair color is the key to unlocking your hair’s true potential.
Is Shades EQ Processing Solution interchangeable with a standard hair developer?
Shades EQ Processing Solution is specifically formulated to be used with Shades EQ Gloss demi-permanent hair color. It has a very low volume, typically around 6 volume (2%), which means it lifts the hair’s cuticle minimally, primarily depositing color on the surface. Using a standard developer, which often ranges from 10 volume (3%) to 40 volume (12%), would likely result in unpredictable and potentially damaging results due to the higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide.
A standard developer, designed to open the hair cuticle wider for more significant color lift and penetration, is not suitable for the delicate balance of Shades EQ. Using a stronger developer can lead to unwanted lightening of the natural hair color, uneven color deposit, and increased risk of damage and dryness. The lower volume of Shades EQ Processing Solution ensures gentle, tone-on-tone color and optimal shine.
What happens if I use a higher volume developer with Shades EQ Gloss?
Using a higher volume developer with Shades EQ Gloss is generally not recommended and can lead to several undesirable outcomes. Because Shades EQ is designed as a demi-permanent gloss, it’s formulated to deposit color with minimal lift. A higher volume developer, designed for permanent color, will lift the hair’s cuticle much more aggressively.
This can result in unwanted lightening of the base color, particularly at the roots, and potentially create hot roots or an uneven color result. The intended gentle toning effect of Shades EQ can be compromised, potentially causing the color to appear brassier or less true to tone. It also increases the risk of damage and dryness, negating the benefits of Shades EQ’s conditioning formula.
What is the purpose of Shades EQ Processing Solution?
The primary purpose of Shades EQ Processing Solution is to activate the Shades EQ Gloss demi-permanent hair color in a gentle and controlled manner. It’s formulated with a low volume of hydrogen peroxide, typically around 6 volume (2%), which allows the color molecules to penetrate the outer layer of the hair shaft without causing significant lift or damage. This ensures a tone-on-tone color result, enhanced shine, and improved hair condition.
The processing solution also plays a vital role in maintaining the integrity of the hair during the coloring process. Its gentle formulation helps to prevent over-processing and dryness, leaving the hair feeling soft, healthy, and vibrant. It’s specifically designed to work in synergy with the Shades EQ Gloss formula, providing optimal color deposit and a long-lasting, glossy finish.
Can I use water or another liquid as a substitute for Shades EQ Processing Solution?
No, you cannot use water or any other liquid as a substitute for Shades EQ Processing Solution. The Processing Solution contains a precise concentration of hydrogen peroxide and other ingredients that are essential for activating the Shades EQ Gloss demi-permanent hair color and achieving the desired color result. Water or other liquids lack these key components and will not properly activate the color.
Using a substitute will prevent the color from depositing correctly, leading to a poor and unpredictable outcome. The Shades EQ formula is carefully balanced to work in conjunction with its dedicated Processing Solution. Substituting it with something else will likely result in the color not processing at all, or resulting in a significantly altered and undesirable color.
How do I know if I’m using the correct amount of Shades EQ Processing Solution?
Redken provides specific mixing ratios for Shades EQ Gloss and Shades EQ Processing Solution, which are typically found on the product packaging or in the product instructions. Adhering to these ratios is crucial for achieving the intended color result and avoiding any potential issues. Usually, the ratio is 1:1 (one part Shades EQ Gloss to one part Shades EQ Processing Solution).
Always use a measuring device, such as a mixing bowl with marked measurements or a dispensing bottle, to ensure accuracy when combining the color and processing solution. Using too little processing solution may result in incomplete color development, while using too much could dilute the color and affect its longevity. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions precisely for optimal results.
What are the benefits of using Shades EQ Processing Solution compared to other developers?
Shades EQ Processing Solution offers specific benefits tailored for use with Shades EQ Gloss demi-permanent hair color, distinguishing it from other developers. Its low volume formulation, typically around 6 volume (2%), minimizes lift and damage, resulting in gentle color deposit and enhanced shine. This is ideal for toning, color correction, and adding gloss without significantly altering the natural hair color.
Unlike higher volume developers that are designed for permanent color and require a greater degree of cuticle opening, Shades EQ Processing Solution prioritizes the health and integrity of the hair. It helps maintain the hair’s moisture balance and prevents over-processing, resulting in soft, manageable, and healthy-looking hair. The targeted formulation also ensures predictable and consistent color results, perfectly complementing the Shades EQ Gloss system.
Where can I purchase Shades EQ Processing Solution?
Shades EQ Processing Solution is typically available for purchase at professional beauty supply stores, salons that carry Redken products, and through authorized online retailers. These retailers are specifically catered to licensed cosmetologists and offer authentic Redken products. Purchasing from reputable sources ensures you are getting a genuine product that has been stored and handled properly, maintaining its efficacy.
Avoid purchasing from unauthorized or discount retailers, as the product may be counterfeit, expired, or improperly stored. Counterfeit products may not contain the correct ingredients or proportions, potentially leading to unpredictable and damaging results. Always verify the authenticity of the seller and the product before making a purchase to ensure you are getting a genuine and reliable product.