Achieving your dream hair color often involves lightening your hair, and understanding the power of different hair developers is crucial. 30 volume developer is a popular choice, but how much lift can you realistically expect from it? This comprehensive guide delves deep into the capabilities of 30 volume developer, factors influencing its effectiveness, and how to use it safely to achieve your desired results.
Understanding Hair Developer and Volume
Hair developer, also known as peroxide, is a chemical agent that opens the hair cuticle, allowing the lightening agent (usually bleach or hair color) to penetrate the hair shaft. This process oxidizes the melanin, the pigment that gives hair its color, thus lightening it. The “volume” refers to the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in the developer. Higher volumes indicate a stronger concentration and, consequently, a greater potential for lift.
What Does 30 Volume Mean?
A 30 volume developer contains 9% hydrogen peroxide. This percentage is crucial because it dictates the amount of oxygen released during the lightening process. The higher the oxygen release, the more effectively the hair is lightened. However, this also means a higher risk of damage if used improperly.
How Many Levels of Lift Can You Expect from 30 Volume?
Predicting the exact number of levels of lift achievable with 30 volume is not an exact science. Several factors influence the outcome, but generally, you can expect anywhere from 2 to 4 levels of lift. A “level” refers to the standard hair color chart levels, ranging from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde).
Factors Influencing Lift Potential
Several factors play a crucial role in determining how much lift 30 volume developer can achieve:
- Starting Hair Color: This is the most significant factor. Darker hair requires more lift to reach lighter shades. Someone starting with level 2 (dark brown) will likely see fewer levels of lift compared to someone starting with level 6 (light brown).
- Hair Type and Condition: Fine hair tends to lift faster than coarse hair. Damaged or previously processed hair may lift unevenly and be more prone to breakage. Healthy, virgin hair generally lifts more predictably.
- The Lightening Product Used: The type of bleach or hair color used in conjunction with the 30 volume developer also matters. Some lightening products are formulated to work more efficiently and provide a greater lift than others.
- Processing Time: Leaving the lightening mixture on the hair for the appropriate amount of time is crucial. Under-processing will result in insufficient lift, while over-processing can lead to damage.
- Heat Application: Applying heat during the processing can accelerate the lifting process. However, it also increases the risk of damage and should be used with caution and only if the instructions for the bleach allow it.
- Application Technique: Even application is essential for achieving consistent results. Uneven application can lead to patchy or unevenly lifted hair.
Estimating the Levels of Lift Based on Hair Color
Here’s a general guideline, but remember these are estimates and individual results may vary:
- Level 1-3 (Black to Dark Brown): Expect 2-3 levels of lift with 30 volume and a good quality bleach. You might need multiple sessions to reach significantly lighter shades.
- Level 4-5 (Medium Brown): Expect 3-4 levels of lift. Achieving blonde shades is possible, but may require toning to neutralize unwanted warm tones.
- Level 6-7 (Light Brown to Dark Blonde): Expect 3-4 levels of lift, potentially more with a strong bleach. You can likely achieve light blonde shades with careful application and toning.
- Level 8-9 (Light Blonde): 30 volume might be too strong. A lower volume developer (10 or 20) is typically recommended to avoid over-processing and damage.
Using 30 Volume Developer Safely and Effectively
While 30 volume developer is powerful, it’s essential to use it safely to minimize damage and achieve the desired results.
Conduct a Strand Test
Before applying the lightening mixture to your entire head, always perform a strand test. This allows you to assess how your hair will react to the bleach and developer combination and adjust processing time accordingly. To perform a strand test, mix a small amount of the bleach and developer and apply it to a hidden strand of hair. Check the hair every few minutes to see how quickly it is lifting and how much damage is occurring.
Protect Your Hair
Prior to lightening, nourish your hair with deep conditioning treatments. This helps strengthen the hair and minimize damage during the bleaching process. Consider using bond-building treatments before, during, and after lightening.
Apply Carefully and Evenly
Divide your hair into small sections and apply the lightening mixture evenly, starting from the roots (if you have virgin hair) or avoiding the roots initially if you have previously lightened hair. Overlapping previously lightened hair can lead to breakage.
Monitor the Processing Time
Carefully monitor the processing time according to the instructions on the bleach packaging and the results of your strand test. Do not leave the bleach on longer than recommended, even if you haven’t achieved your desired level of lift.
Rinse Thoroughly and Tone
Once the desired level of lift is achieved, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water. Shampoo with a sulfate-free shampoo and follow with a deep conditioner. Bleached hair often has unwanted warm tones (yellow or orange), so toning is usually necessary to achieve the desired final shade.
Post-Lightening Care
Bleaching can leave your hair dry and brittle, so it’s essential to adjust your hair care routine accordingly. Use moisturizing shampoos and conditioners, deep condition regularly, and avoid heat styling as much as possible.
When to Choose a Different Developer Volume
While 30 volume is a versatile choice, it’s not always the best option. Consider these scenarios when a different volume might be more appropriate:
When to Use 10 or 20 Volume
- Already Light Hair: If your hair is already light (level 8 or higher), a lower volume developer (10 or 20) is sufficient for toning or making subtle changes.
- Delicate Hair: If your hair is damaged, fine, or fragile, a lower volume developer will minimize the risk of breakage.
- Root Touch-Ups: For root touch-ups on already lightened hair, a lower volume developer is often sufficient to lift the roots to match the rest of your hair.
When to Use 40 Volume
- Extremely Dark Hair: If you have very dark hair (level 1-2) and want to achieve a significant lift, 40 volume might be necessary. However, it should only be used by experienced professionals due to the high risk of damage.
- Resistant Hair: Some hair types are naturally resistant to lightening. 40 volume might be needed in these cases, but again, caution is advised.
Alternatives to Bleach and 30 Volume Developer
If you are concerned about the potential damage from bleach and 30 volume developer, there are alternatives you can explore:
- High-Lift Hair Color: These colors are formulated to lift and deposit color in one step, often using lower developer volumes than bleach.
- Hair Lightening Sprays or Mousses: These products gradually lighten the hair over time with repeated use. They are gentler than bleach but may not provide as dramatic a lift.
- Balayage or Highlights: These techniques involve lightening only certain sections of the hair, which can be less damaging than lightening the entire head.
Important Considerations and Disclaimer
Lightening your hair can be a complex process, and it’s important to proceed with caution. If you are unsure about any aspect of the process, consult with a professional hairstylist. They can assess your hair type and condition, recommend the appropriate developer volume and lightening product, and ensure that the process is carried out safely and effectively. Remember that achieving your desired hair color may require multiple sessions, especially if you have dark hair. Be patient and prioritize the health of your hair. Always follow the instructions on the lightening product packaging and perform a strand test before applying the mixture to your entire head. This information is for general guidance only and should not be considered a substitute for professional advice. Hair lightening involves chemicals that can damage your hair and skin. Always use caution, wear gloves, and follow all safety precautions.
FAQ 1: What exactly does “30 volume” refer to when discussing hair developer?
The term “30 volume” refers to the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in the developer solution. Specifically, 30 volume developer contains 9% hydrogen peroxide. This percentage dictates how much oxygen it releases, which is crucial for both opening the hair cuticle to allow color penetration and lightening the natural pigment of the hair.
Higher volumes like 40 volume contain more hydrogen peroxide and thus offer more lift, but also pose a greater risk of damage. Choosing the right volume depends on your desired level of lift and the health and strength of your hair. Understanding the percentage translates directly to the developer’s lifting power.
FAQ 2: How many levels can I realistically expect 30 volume developer to lift my hair?
Generally, 30 volume developer can lift hair approximately 2-3 levels. This means if you start with a medium brown (level 4), you can expect to achieve a light brown or dark blonde (levels 6-7) with a single application. However, this is a general guideline, and several factors can influence the actual result.
Factors such as your hair’s natural color, porosity, and previous chemical treatments play a significant role. Darker hair may require multiple applications or a stronger developer for significant lightening. It’s always recommended to perform a strand test to assess the potential lift and avoid unexpected results.
FAQ 3: Can I use 30 volume developer to lift box-dyed hair?
Lifting box-dyed hair, especially if it’s a dark color, can be challenging and unpredictable. The artificial pigments in box dye often contain metallic salts and are much more difficult to remove than natural hair pigment. While 30 volume can offer some lift, it might not be enough to achieve the desired result, and it could lead to uneven lifting or damage.
It’s highly recommended to consult with a professional colorist if you’re attempting to lift box-dyed hair. They can assess the condition of your hair, determine the best approach, and use specialized techniques to minimize damage and achieve a more even and predictable lift. Color correction is often necessary in such cases.
FAQ 4: What are the risks associated with using 30 volume developer?
Using 30 volume developer, while effective for lifting, does come with certain risks. The higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide can weaken the hair shaft, leading to dryness, brittleness, and increased susceptibility to breakage. Overlapping the developer on previously lightened hair can exacerbate these issues, causing significant damage.
Furthermore, improper use can result in chemical burns to the scalp. It’s crucial to follow product instructions carefully, avoid excessive processing time, and use protective measures like gloves and proper ventilation. Regular deep conditioning treatments are essential to replenish moisture and strengthen the hair after lightening.
FAQ 5: How can I minimize damage when using 30 volume developer?
To minimize damage when using 30 volume developer, prioritize proper preparation and aftercare. Before coloring, ensure your hair is healthy and well-hydrated. Use a deep conditioning treatment a few days prior to the process. Avoid washing your hair immediately before coloring to allow natural oils to protect your scalp and strands.
During and after the lightening process, use a protein treatment and follow with a deep conditioner to help repair and strengthen the hair. Avoid heat styling as much as possible in the weeks following the coloring session and use heat protectant when styling. Consider using a bond-building treatment as well.
FAQ 6: Is 30 volume developer always the best choice for lifting my hair?
No, 30 volume developer isn’t always the best choice. The optimal developer volume depends entirely on your hair’s current color level, desired level of lift, and overall health. For subtle changes or lifting only one level, a lower volume developer like 10 or 20 volume might be sufficient and less damaging.
If you’re aiming for significant lightening, such as lifting four or more levels, a higher volume developer like 40 volume might be necessary, but it should be used with extreme caution and preferably by a professional. Always prioritize the health of your hair and choose the lowest volume developer that can achieve your desired result.
FAQ 7: How long should I leave 30 volume developer on my hair?
The processing time for 30 volume developer varies depending on the specific product and desired results, but generally ranges from 30 to 45 minutes. It’s crucial to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and regularly check the hair during processing to avoid over-processing and potential damage.
Do not exceed the maximum recommended processing time, even if your hair hasn’t reached the desired level of lift. Over-processing can lead to severe damage, breakage, and even hair loss. If you need more lift, it’s better to perform a second application after a few weeks, allowing your hair to recover in between.