Achieving the perfect hair color is often a journey, not a destination. Many of us embark on this journey with highlights, aiming for sun-kissed strands and added dimension. However, sometimes highlights can become too bright, brassy, or simply overdone. That’s where lowlights come in – a fantastic solution for adding depth, dimension, and a touch of naturalness back into your highlighted hair. But how exactly do you put lowlights over highlighted hair? This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from understanding the process to choosing the right colors and techniques.
Understanding the Basics: Highlights, Lowlights, and Your Hair
Before diving into the application process, it’s crucial to grasp the fundamentals of highlights and lowlights and how they interact with your existing hair color. Highlights lift the color of your hair, making sections lighter than your base color. This creates brightness and dimension. On the other hand, lowlights add depth and shadow by coloring strands darker than your base color. They work to break up excessive brightness and create a more balanced, natural look.
Your hair’s existing color, texture, and overall condition will greatly influence the outcome of your lowlighting process. Porous hair, often caused by previous bleaching or chemical treatments, tends to absorb color more quickly. This means that the lowlights might appear darker than intended. Understanding your hair’s porosity and previous color history is paramount for achieving the desired results.
Why Add Lowlights to Highlighted Hair?
There are several compelling reasons to consider adding lowlights to highlighted hair. The most common is to correct over-highlighted hair. Too many highlights can leave your hair looking washed out and lacking depth. Lowlights introduce darker tones, re-establishing contrast and creating a more natural appearance.
Another reason is to tone down brassiness. Highlights, particularly blonde highlights, are prone to developing brassy tones over time. Lowlights with cool undertones can effectively neutralize these unwanted warm hues, resulting in a more balanced and sophisticated color.
Finally, adding lowlights can simply be a way to refresh your look. As seasons change, or as your personal style evolves, you might want to add a touch of depth and richness to your hair. Lowlights are an excellent way to achieve this without completely abandoning your beloved highlights.
Choosing the Right Lowlight Colors
Selecting the correct lowlight colors is arguably the most important step in the entire process. The goal is to choose shades that complement both your base color and your existing highlights, creating a harmonious and balanced overall look.
Consider your skin tone when making your color selection. Warmer skin tones generally pair well with warmer lowlight shades, such as golden browns or caramel tones. Cooler skin tones, on the other hand, tend to look best with cooler lowlight shades, like ash browns or cool beiges.
Think about your natural hair color, even if it’s been significantly altered. Your natural color provides a foundational element that should be considered. Aim for lowlight shades that are one to two shades darker than your natural color or root color, if you have root growth. This creates a natural-looking contrast without appearing too stark.
Also, analyze the current tone of your highlights. Are they warm and golden, or cool and ashy? Choose lowlight colors that will either complement or neutralize these tones, depending on your desired outcome. If your highlights are overly warm, consider using lowlights with cool undertones to balance the color.
Popular Lowlight Color Choices
Here are some popular lowlight color choices, categorized by hair color:
- For Blonde Highlights: Light to medium ash brown, cool beige, or caramel (for warmer blondes).
- For Brunette Highlights: Dark chocolate brown, chestnut brown, or deep auburn.
- For Red Highlights: Copper brown, mahogany, or deep auburn.
It’s always a good idea to do a strand test before applying the lowlights to your entire head. This allows you to see how the color will look on your hair and adjust accordingly.
Preparing Your Hair for Lowlights
Proper preparation is essential for achieving the best possible results and minimizing damage. Start by assessing the condition of your hair. If your hair is dry, brittle, or damaged, consider deep conditioning treatments for several weeks prior to applying the lowlights. Healthy hair holds color better and is less prone to damage.
Perform a strand test as mentioned previously. This is non-negotiable. It helps determine the processing time and ensures you’re happy with the color result.
Gather all your supplies beforehand. You’ll need:
- Lowlight hair color
- Applicator brush
- Gloves
- Mixing bowl
- Sectioning clips
- Old towel to protect your clothing
- Timer
- Shampoo and conditioner for color-treated hair
Read the instructions on your chosen hair color product carefully. Every product is different, and it’s crucial to follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for mixing ratios, application techniques, and processing times.
Applying Lowlights: Techniques and Tips
There are several techniques you can use to apply lowlights over highlighted hair, depending on the desired effect and your level of experience.
The most common technique is the weaving technique. This involves using a weaving comb or the end of an applicator brush to separate small sections of hair. Apply the lowlight color to these woven sections, leaving some of the highlighted strands untouched. This creates a natural, blended look.
Another popular technique is the slice technique. This involves taking thin slices of hair and applying the lowlight color directly to the entire slice. This technique is best for creating more dramatic contrast.
For a more subtle effect, consider the balayage or ombre technique. These techniques involve hand-painting the lowlight color onto the hair, focusing on the mid-lengths and ends. This creates a gradual transition of color and adds depth without harsh lines.
Step-by-Step Application Guide
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Section Your Hair: Divide your hair into manageable sections using sectioning clips. Start at the top of your head and work your way down.
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Mix the Lowlight Color: Following the manufacturer’s instructions, mix the lowlight color in a mixing bowl.
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Apply the Lowlight Color: Using your chosen technique (weaving, slicing, or balayage), apply the lowlight color to the selected strands of hair. Be sure to saturate the hair evenly.
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Process the Color: Once you have applied the lowlight color to all the desired sections, allow it to process for the recommended amount of time. Check the color regularly to ensure it’s not becoming too dark.
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Rinse and Condition: After the processing time is complete, rinse the lowlight color thoroughly with cool water. Follow with a shampoo and conditioner specifically designed for color-treated hair.
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Style Your Hair: Style your hair as usual. You should now have beautiful, dimensional hair with balanced color.
Essential Tips for Success
- Don’t Overdo It: Start with fewer lowlights than you think you need. You can always add more later if desired.
- Focus on the Underneath Layers: Applying lowlights to the underneath layers of your hair can create depth and dimension without overpowering your highlights.
- Blend, Blend, Blend: Use your fingers or an applicator brush to blend the lowlight color seamlessly into the surrounding hair. This will prevent harsh lines and create a more natural look.
- Be Patient: Applying lowlights can be a time-consuming process. Don’t rush it. Take your time and pay attention to detail.
Maintaining Your Lowlights
Once you’ve achieved your desired lowlight look, it’s crucial to maintain the color and condition of your hair. Use a shampoo and conditioner specifically formulated for color-treated hair. These products are designed to protect your hair color and prevent fading.
Avoid washing your hair too frequently. Over-washing can strip your hair of its natural oils and cause the color to fade more quickly. Aim to wash your hair only two to three times per week.
Protect your hair from heat damage. Excessive heat from styling tools can cause your hair color to fade and become dull. Use a heat protectant spray before using any heat styling tools.
Schedule regular touch-up appointments. Depending on how quickly your hair grows and how much the color fades, you’ll need to touch up your lowlights every six to eight weeks. This will keep your color looking fresh and vibrant.
Products to Extend the Life of Your Lowlights
Consider using color-depositing shampoos and conditioners. These products contain small amounts of pigment that can help to refresh your lowlight color and prevent fading. Choose a color-depositing product that matches your lowlight shade.
Invest in a good quality deep conditioner. Deep conditioning treatments can help to replenish moisture and repair damage, keeping your hair healthy and vibrant.
Use a leave-in conditioner with UV protection. UV rays can cause your hair color to fade. A leave-in conditioner with UV protection can help to shield your hair from the sun’s harmful rays.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even with careful planning and execution, issues can sometimes arise during the lowlighting process. Knowing how to troubleshoot these common problems can save you from hair color disasters.
Lowlights Too Dark: If your lowlights turn out darker than expected, don’t panic. Wash your hair with a clarifying shampoo to help fade the color. You can also use a color remover, but be sure to follow the instructions carefully and avoid over-processing your hair.
Lowlights Too Warm: If your lowlights have developed a brassy or orange tinge, use a blue or purple shampoo to neutralize the warm tones. These shampoos contain pigments that counteract brassiness, leaving your hair looking cooler and more balanced.
Uneven Color: If your lowlights are uneven or patchy, try applying a gloss or toner to even out the color. A gloss or toner can also add shine and vibrancy to your hair.
Damaged Hair: If your hair feels dry, brittle, or damaged after applying lowlights, focus on repairing and strengthening your hair. Use a deep conditioning treatment, avoid heat styling, and consider getting a trim to remove any damaged ends.
When to See a Professional
While it is possible to apply lowlights over highlighted hair at home, there are times when it’s best to seek professional help. If you have severely damaged hair, if you’re attempting a significant color change, or if you’re simply not confident in your ability to do it yourself, consult with a professional hair stylist.
A professional stylist has the expertise and experience to assess your hair’s condition, choose the right lowlight colors, and apply the lowlights safely and effectively. They can also provide personalized advice on how to maintain your color and keep your hair healthy. Investing in a professional service can save you time, money, and potential hair damage in the long run.
What are the benefits of adding lowlights to highlighted hair?
Adding lowlights to highlighted hair provides depth and dimension that might be lacking in an all-over highlighted look. Highlights can sometimes appear flat or brassy over time, and lowlights help to counteract these issues by introducing darker shades that break up the monotony. This contrast creates a more natural and dynamic appearance, enhancing the overall texture and movement of your hair.
Furthermore, lowlights can contribute to healthier-looking hair. Over-processing from frequent highlighting can weaken the hair shaft. Introducing lowlights allows you to reduce the frequency of highlighting appointments, which means less exposure to harsh chemicals and potentially stronger, more resilient hair. The darker pigments can also help to camouflage any existing damage and give the illusion of thicker, fuller hair.
How do I choose the right lowlight shade for my highlighted hair?
The ideal lowlight shade should complement both your base hair color and your existing highlights. A general rule of thumb is to choose a shade that is one to two levels darker than your natural hair color. Consider your skin’s undertones as well. Warm undertones tend to pair well with golden brown or caramel lowlights, while cool undertones benefit from ash brown or chocolate shades.
Avoid selecting a lowlight color that is too drastically darker than your highlights, as this can create a harsh, unnatural contrast. If you’re unsure, consult with a professional colorist who can assess your hair and skin tone and recommend the most flattering lowlight shades. They can also create a custom blend that perfectly enhances your existing color.
What tools and products do I need to apply lowlights at home?
Before you begin the process of applying lowlights at home, gather all the necessary tools. You will need a professional-grade hair dye kit in your chosen lowlight shade, a mixing bowl and applicator brush, gloves to protect your hands, a timer, and sectioning clips. Additionally, have a towel to protect your clothing and a clarifying shampoo and moisturizing conditioner for after the process.
For precise application, consider using a highlighting cap with a crochet hook or a balayage board and brush. This helps ensure controlled placement of the lowlights and prevents any unwanted color transfer to other areas of your hair. It’s also beneficial to have a mirror and good lighting to see the back of your head and monitor the progress.
How can I prevent my lowlights from turning brassy after application?
To prevent brassiness in your lowlights, particularly if you have warm undertones in your hair, use a blue or purple shampoo and conditioner regularly. These products contain pigments that neutralize unwanted orange or yellow tones that can emerge over time. Incorporate them into your washing routine once or twice a week.
Also, protect your hair from excessive heat and sun exposure. Heat styling tools can strip the hair of its color and contribute to brassiness. Use a heat protectant spray before styling. Similarly, prolonged exposure to the sun’s UV rays can oxidize the color molecules in your hair, leading to unwanted warm tones. Consider using a hair product with UV protection or wearing a hat when spending time outdoors.
How long should I leave the lowlight dye on my hair?
The processing time for lowlight dye depends on several factors, including the specific dye used, the porosity of your hair, and the desired level of color saturation. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions provided with the dye kit. Generally, lowlight dye is left on for approximately 20 to 30 minutes.
Check the color frequently during the processing time, starting around 15 minutes. If you notice that the color is developing too quickly or is reaching the desired intensity, rinse the dye out immediately to avoid over-darkening. It’s always better to err on the side of caution and leave the dye on for a shorter period than risk ending up with a color that is too dark.
How often should I get lowlights to maintain the look?
The frequency of lowlight touch-ups depends on your hair growth rate, the contrast between your highlights and lowlights, and how well you maintain the color at home. Typically, you’ll need to refresh your lowlights every 6 to 8 weeks. This timing coincides with when you might typically touch up your highlights.
Observe your hair for signs that the lowlights are fading or losing their contrast. If you notice a significant difference in tone or the lowlights appear less defined, it’s time for a refresh. However, avoid over-processing your hair with frequent color treatments. If your hair is healthy and the color still looks good after 8 weeks, you can wait longer between appointments.
What are the risks of putting lowlights over highlighted hair at home?
Applying lowlights at home can be risky if not done correctly. Uneven application is a common issue, leading to patchy or blotchy results. This can occur if the dye is not distributed evenly or if the sectioning is not precise. Overlapping previously colored hair can also create unwanted dark bands.
Another risk is over-processing or damaging the hair. Improperly mixing the dye or leaving it on for too long can weaken the hair shaft, leading to breakage and dryness. Allergic reactions to the dye are also a possibility, so it’s crucial to perform a patch test before applying the dye to your entire head. If you’re unsure about any aspect of the process, it’s best to consult a professional hairstylist.