Bleaching your hair can achieve stunning transformations, but the inevitable root regrowth can sometimes create a harsh, unflattering contrast. Darkening your roots after bleaching is a common practice to blend the new growth seamlessly and maintain a polished, intentional look. This guide provides a detailed, step-by-step approach to darkening your roots safely and effectively, covering everything from color selection to aftercare.
Understanding the Challenges of Darkening Bleached Roots
Darkening bleached hair, especially roots, requires a nuanced understanding of hair color theory and the unique porosity of bleached strands. Bleached hair is significantly more porous than virgin hair, meaning it absorbs color faster and can sometimes result in unpredictable tones.
Uneven Color Absorption: The most significant challenge is achieving an even color result. The bleached portion of your hair is likely much lighter and more porous than your natural root growth. This difference in porosity can lead to the bleached part grabbing the color more intensely, resulting in a darker band where the bleach ends.
Avoiding Green or Ashy Tones: Bleach removes warm tones from the hair, leaving a cool base. When applying a darker color, particularly those with cool undertones, it’s easy for the bleached hair to absorb too much of the cool pigment, resulting in a green or ashy appearance.
Damage Control: Repeated bleaching can weaken hair, making it more susceptible to damage during the darkening process. Choosing the right products and techniques is crucial to minimize stress and maintain hair health.
Choosing the Right Color and Products
Selecting the correct color and quality products is paramount for a successful root darkening experience. The goal is to achieve a natural-looking blend without causing further damage.
Selecting the Right Shade
Matching Your Natural Hair Color: The most straightforward approach is to match your natural hair color as closely as possible. This creates a seamless transition and avoids the need for frequent touch-ups. Analyze your hair in natural light to determine its true shade. If you’re unsure, it’s always best to err on the side of caution and choose a slightly lighter shade, as you can always go darker if needed.
Considering Undertones: Pay attention to the undertones in both your natural hair color and the dye you’re considering. If your natural hair has warm undertones (gold, red, or copper), choose a dye with similar undertones to avoid a muddy or ashy result. If your hair has cool undertones (ash, blue, or violet), opt for a cool-toned dye.
Demi-Permanent vs. Permanent Color: For darkening roots after bleaching, demi-permanent color is often the preferred choice. Demi-permanent dyes deposit color without lifting the hair’s cuticle, resulting in less damage and a softer, more natural-looking blend. They gradually fade over time, minimizing the harsh line of demarcation as your roots grow out again. Permanent dyes, on the other hand, can be more damaging and create a more noticeable line of regrowth.
Essential Products for Darkening Roots
High-Quality Hair Dye: Invest in a reputable brand known for its consistent color results and gentle formulas. Read reviews and consider recommendations from hairstylists.
Developer (if using permanent or demi-permanent color): The developer activates the dye and helps it penetrate the hair shaft. Choose the correct volume of developer based on the instructions of your chosen dye. For darkening roots, a low-volume developer (10 or 20 volume) is typically sufficient and less damaging.
Applicator Brush and Bowl: A quality applicator brush allows for precise and even application of the dye. A non-metallic bowl is essential for mixing the dye and developer.
Gloves: Protect your hands from staining by wearing gloves throughout the entire process.
Petroleum Jelly or Barrier Cream: Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly or barrier cream along your hairline to prevent the dye from staining your skin.
Old Towel and Clothes: Wear old clothes that you don’t mind getting stained, and drape an old towel around your shoulders to protect your clothing.
Deep Conditioner: Bleached hair is prone to dryness and damage. A deep conditioner will help restore moisture and improve the overall health of your hair after coloring.
Color-Safe Shampoo and Conditioner: Use color-safe shampoo and conditioner to prolong the life of your color and prevent fading.
Step-by-Step Guide to Darkening Your Roots
Follow these steps carefully to achieve the best possible results when darkening your roots after bleaching.
Preparation is Key
Perform a Strand Test: Before applying the dye to your entire head, perform a strand test to assess the color result and ensure you’re happy with the shade. Apply the dye to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair (e.g., underneath a layer of hair at the nape of your neck) and leave it on for the recommended time. Rinse and dry the strand to see the final color.
Prepare Your Hair: Do not wash your hair for 24-48 hours before coloring. This allows the natural oils in your scalp to protect it from irritation. However, ensure your hair is free of styling products, as these can interfere with the dye’s absorption.
Mix the Dye: Follow the instructions on the dye packaging carefully to mix the dye and developer in the correct proportions. Use a non-metallic bowl and whisk until the mixture is smooth and consistent.
Applying the Dye
Section Your Hair: Divide your hair into four sections (or more, depending on the thickness of your hair) using clips. This will help you ensure even coverage.
Apply the Dye to the Roots: Using the applicator brush, carefully apply the dye to your roots, starting at the front hairline and working your way back. Be precise and avoid overlapping the dye onto the previously bleached hair, as this can create a band of darker color. Use a mirror to check the back of your head and ensure all roots are covered.
Timing is Crucial: Once you’ve applied the dye to all your roots, set a timer for the recommended processing time (as specified on the dye packaging). Avoid leaving the dye on for longer than recommended, as this can damage your hair and result in an unnatural color.
Emulsify (Optional): A few minutes before the end of the processing time, you can gently emulsify the dye by adding a small amount of water to your hair and massaging it through your roots. This can help blend the color more seamlessly.
Rinsing and Conditioning
Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear. This may take several minutes.
Apply Deep Conditioner: Apply a generous amount of deep conditioner to your hair and leave it on for 5-10 minutes (or as directed on the product packaging). This will help restore moisture and improve the health of your hair.
Rinse Again: Rinse the deep conditioner out with cool water.
Post-Coloring Care and Maintenance
Proper aftercare is essential for maintaining your color and keeping your hair healthy.
Washing Your Hair
Wait Before Washing: Avoid washing your hair for at least 48 hours after coloring. This allows the color to fully set and prevents fading.
Use Color-Safe Products: Use a color-safe shampoo and conditioner specifically formulated for color-treated hair. These products are gentler and won’t strip the color as quickly as regular shampoos and conditioners.
Wash Less Frequently: Washing your hair less frequently will help prolong the life of your color. Try to wash your hair only 2-3 times per week.
Use Cool Water: Wash your hair with cool water, as hot water can cause the color to fade more quickly.
Protecting Your Hair from Damage
Minimize Heat Styling: Heat styling tools (e.g., hair dryers, straighteners, curling irons) can damage your hair and cause the color to fade. Minimize your use of these tools and always use a heat protectant spray before styling.
Protect Your Hair from the Sun: The sun can also cause your color to fade. Wear a hat or use a UV protectant spray when spending time outdoors.
Regular Deep Conditioning: Continue to deep condition your hair regularly (at least once a week) to maintain moisture and prevent damage.
Touch-Ups
Timing Your Touch-Ups: The frequency of your root touch-ups will depend on how quickly your hair grows and how noticeable the regrowth is. Typically, you’ll need to touch up your roots every 4-6 weeks.
Be Precise with Application: When touching up your roots, be careful to apply the dye only to the new growth, avoiding overlapping the dye onto the previously colored hair. This will prevent banding and ensure a seamless blend.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even with careful planning and execution, some issues can arise when darkening bleached roots. Here are some common problems and how to address them.
Color Too Dark
If the color is too dark, you can try using a clarifying shampoo to gently lift some of the color. Wash your hair with clarifying shampoo a few times over the next few days. You can also try using a color remover, but be sure to follow the instructions carefully and use a deep conditioner afterward, as color removers can be drying.
Color Too Ashy or Green
If your hair has turned ashy or green, you can try using a color-depositing shampoo or conditioner with warm undertones (e.g., red or copper) to counteract the cool tones. Alternatively, you can apply a hair gloss with warm undertones.
Uneven Color
If the color is uneven, you may need to seek professional help. A hairstylist can assess the situation and correct the color using professional techniques.
Hair Damage
If your hair is damaged after coloring, focus on repairing and strengthening it. Use deep conditioners, hair masks, and protein treatments to restore moisture and elasticity. Avoid heat styling and harsh chemicals until your hair is healthy again.
When to Seek Professional Help
While darkening your roots at home can be a cost-effective and convenient option, there are situations where seeking professional help is advisable.
Significant Color Correction: If you’re attempting a drastic color change (e.g., going from platinum blonde to dark brown), it’s best to consult a professional. These types of changes require specialized knowledge and techniques to avoid damage and achieve the desired result.
Damaged Hair: If your hair is already severely damaged, attempting to color it yourself can exacerbate the problem. A professional can assess the condition of your hair and recommend the best course of action.
Unsure About Color Selection: If you’re unsure about which color to choose or how to mix the dye, it’s best to err on the side of caution and seek professional advice.
Darkening your roots after bleaching can be a manageable process with the right knowledge and preparation. By understanding the challenges, choosing the correct products, following the steps carefully, and practicing proper aftercare, you can achieve a seamless blend and maintain healthy, beautiful hair. When in doubt, don’t hesitate to consult a professional hairstylist for personalized guidance.
Why would I want to darken my roots after bleaching?
The main reason people choose to darken their roots after bleaching is to create a more blended, natural-looking hairstyle. A harsh line between blonde hair and darker roots can look stark and unflattering, requiring constant touch-ups to maintain a uniform blonde look. Darkening the roots can soften the transition, making the overall style appear more effortless and low-maintenance.
Another benefit is that darker roots can add dimension and depth to blonde hair. This can prevent the blonde from looking flat or washed out. It also allows for creative styles like root smudging or shadow roots, which are popular techniques to achieve a modern, dimensional blonde look. These techniques often involve using a demi-permanent color close to your natural root color to blend with the bleached sections.
What is the best type of hair dye to use for darkening bleached roots?
Demi-permanent hair dye is generally considered the best option for darkening bleached roots. Demi-permanent color deposits color without lifting the existing hair pigment. This is crucial because lifting pigment on already damaged, bleached hair can lead to further damage, breakage, and unwanted color results like brassiness.
Unlike permanent dyes, demi-permanent formulas fade gradually over time, typically lasting around 24-28 shampoos. This fading allows for a softer grow-out and reduces the severity of the root line as your natural hair grows in. The gradual fade also provides flexibility if you decide you want to lighten your roots again in the future, making it a less permanent commitment than using permanent color.
How do I choose the right color for my roots?
Choosing the correct color for your roots is crucial for a natural-looking blend. The ideal shade should be as close as possible to your natural root color or slightly lighter, especially if you’re aiming for a seamless transition. Avoid going too dark, as this can create a harsh contrast and undo the softening effect you’re trying to achieve.
To determine your natural root color, examine your hair at the roots in natural light. Consider consulting a professional stylist to help assess your hair color accurately. If you’re unsure, opt for a color slightly lighter than you think you need, as you can always go darker in a second application if necessary. A slightly lighter shade is much easier to correct than a shade that’s too dark.
What tools and supplies do I need to darken my roots at home?
Before you begin darkening your roots at home, gather all the necessary tools and supplies. You will need the demi-permanent hair dye in your chosen shade, a developer (usually a 10 volume developer is sufficient), a mixing bowl, and a color applicator brush. Also grab some clips to section your hair.
Don’t forget essential protective items such as gloves to protect your hands from staining, an old towel or cape to protect your clothing, and petroleum jelly or a similar barrier cream to apply around your hairline to prevent staining your skin. Having these items prepared beforehand will make the process smoother and less messy.
How do I apply the dye to my roots without overlapping onto the bleached hair?
Precision is key when applying dye to your roots to avoid overlapping onto the bleached hair. Start by sectioning your hair into small, manageable sections using clips. Focus on one section at a time, applying the dye precisely to the root area using the applicator brush. Work the dye into the roots ensuring even coverage.
Use a mirror to check the back of your head to ensure you haven’t missed any spots. As you apply the dye, keep a clean, damp cloth nearby to wipe away any stray dye that may get onto the bleached sections of your hair. This helps to maintain the integrity of your blonde and prevents unwanted color transfer.
How long should I leave the dye on my roots?
The processing time for demi-permanent dye can vary depending on the brand and formula, so always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions on the dye box. Generally, demi-permanent hair dye is left on the roots for around 20-30 minutes. It’s crucial not to exceed the recommended time, as over-processing can lead to damage or an unexpected color result.
After the allotted time, thoroughly rinse the dye from your hair with cool water until the water runs clear. Follow up with a color-safe shampoo and conditioner to help lock in the color and hydrate your hair. Avoid using clarifying shampoos immediately after coloring, as these can strip the color and cause it to fade faster.
How do I maintain my darkened roots and prevent the color from fading?
To maintain your darkened roots and prevent the color from fading prematurely, adopt a gentle hair care routine. Use color-safe shampoos and conditioners specifically formulated to protect and prolong hair color. These products are typically sulfate-free, which helps prevent stripping the dye molecules from your hair.
Minimize washing your hair frequently, as each wash can contribute to color fade. When you do wash your hair, use cool or lukewarm water instead of hot water. Hot water can open the hair cuticle and allow color to escape more easily. Additionally, protect your hair from excessive sun exposure, as UV rays can also fade hair color. Consider using hair products with UV protection or wearing a hat when spending time outdoors.