Embarking on a hair transformation at home using box dye can be exciting, but sometimes the results don’t quite match your vision. Perhaps your chosen shade turned out darker than anticipated. If you’re facing this common hair dilemma, don’t despair! Lightening box dyed hair is possible, although it requires careful planning, patience, and a healthy dose of caution. This comprehensive guide will provide you with the knowledge and techniques you need to lighten your box dyed hair effectively and safely.
Understanding Box Dye and Its Limitations
Before diving into lightening techniques, it’s crucial to understand the nature of box dye. Box dyes are formulated for widespread use, meaning they typically contain a higher volume of developer (the chemical that lifts color) and more pigment than professional salon dyes. This can lead to unpredictable results, particularly when trying to lighten hair previously dyed with a box color. The pigments in box dye are often very strong and can be difficult to remove. Additionally, box dyes often contain metallic salts that can react unpredictably with other chemicals, potentially causing damage.
Another factor to consider is the level of lift achieved with box dye. Most box dyes are designed to deposit color, not significantly lift it. If your starting point is dark, achieving a much lighter shade using only box dye can be challenging and damaging.
Furthermore, the condition of your hair plays a vital role. Damaged or porous hair absorbs color more readily, resulting in a darker and potentially uneven outcome. Attempting to lighten already damaged hair can lead to further breakage and dryness. Therefore, assessing your hair’s health before proceeding is paramount.
Assessing Your Hair and Planning Your Approach
The first step is a thorough assessment of your hair’s current condition, color, and history. Ask yourself the following questions:
- What color is my hair currently? Is it significantly darker than my desired shade?
- How many times has my hair been dyed with box dye, and what colors were used?
- Is my hair healthy, or is it dry, brittle, or damaged?
- What is my desired end result? A few shades lighter, or a complete transformation?
Answering these questions will help you determine the best course of action. If your hair is significantly darker than your desired shade, or if it is already damaged, it’s highly recommended to consult with a professional hairstylist. They can assess your hair’s condition and formulate a lightening plan that minimizes damage.
If you decide to proceed with lightening at home, perform a strand test before applying any product to your entire head. This involves applying the lightening product to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair to see how it reacts. This test will reveal the amount of lift you can expect, and help you assess any potential damage.
The Importance of a Strand Test
A strand test is your best friend when it comes to lightening box dyed hair. It’s a small investment of time that can save you from a hair disaster. To perform a strand test:
- Select a small, hidden section of hair, such as underneath the back of your head.
- Apply the lightening product to the section, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Process the product for the recommended time, checking frequently to monitor the lift.
- Rinse the product thoroughly and allow the hair to dry.
- Assess the color and condition of the hair. Is it the desired shade? Is it damaged?
The results of the strand test will inform your decision on whether to proceed with lightening your entire head, and if so, what products and techniques to use.
Techniques for Lightening Box Dyed Hair
Several techniques can be used to lighten box dyed hair. The best option for you will depend on your hair’s condition, the level of lift you desire, and your comfort level with DIY hair treatments.
Color Remover
Color removers are designed to remove artificial pigment from the hair without lifting the natural base color. They work by shrinking the dye molecules, allowing them to be washed away. Color removers are generally less damaging than bleach, making them a good first step for lightening box dyed hair.
When using a color remover, carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Apply the product evenly to your hair, ensuring that all strands are saturated. Process for the recommended time, and then rinse thoroughly. You may need to repeat the process several times to remove as much of the artificial pigment as possible.
After using a color remover, your hair may appear brassy or orange. This is because the color remover has lifted the darker pigments, revealing the underlying warm tones. You can tone your hair after using a color remover to neutralize these warm tones.
Bleach Washing (Also known as a Soap Cap)
A bleach wash, also known as a soap cap, is a milder form of lightening that can gradually lift color without causing as much damage as a full bleach application. It involves mixing bleach with shampoo and applying it to damp hair for a short period.
To create a bleach wash, mix equal parts bleach powder, developer (10 or 20 volume), and shampoo. Apply the mixture to damp hair, focusing on the areas that are darkest. Massage the mixture into your hair for a few minutes, and then rinse thoroughly. Monitor the color closely, as bleach can lift quickly.
A bleach wash is a good option for lifting a small amount of color, or for refreshing highlights. It is less effective for significantly lightening dark hair.
Traditional Bleaching
Traditional bleaching is the most effective way to significantly lighten box dyed hair. However, it is also the most damaging. Bleach works by oxidizing the melanin in your hair, which is responsible for its natural color. This process can weaken the hair shaft, making it more prone to breakage and dryness.
If you choose to bleach your hair at home, proceed with extreme caution. Use a low volume developer (10 or 20 volume) to minimize damage. Apply the bleach evenly to your hair, starting at the roots. Process for the recommended time, checking frequently to monitor the lift. Rinse the bleach thoroughly and apply a deep conditioning treatment.
Bleaching is best left to professionals, especially when dealing with box dyed hair. A stylist can assess your hair’s condition and formulate a bleaching plan that minimizes damage and achieves your desired results.
Toning Your Hair After Lightening
After lightening your hair, it’s likely that it will have some unwanted warm tones, such as yellow or orange. Toning is the process of neutralizing these tones to achieve a cooler, more neutral color.
Toners contain pigments that counteract the unwanted tones in your hair. For example, a purple toner will neutralize yellow tones, while a blue toner will neutralize orange tones.
Toners are available in various forms, including shampoos, conditioners, and glosses. Choose a toner that is appropriate for your hair color and desired end result.
Always perform a strand test before applying toner to your entire head. This will help you ensure that the toner is not too strong, and that it will achieve the desired result.
Maintaining the Health of Your Lightened Hair
Lightening box dyed hair can be damaging, so it’s crucial to take steps to maintain the health of your hair.
- Use a deep conditioning treatment regularly. Deep conditioning treatments help to restore moisture and strengthen the hair shaft.
- Avoid heat styling as much as possible. Heat styling can further damage already weakened hair. If you must use heat, use a heat protectant spray.
- Use sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner. Sulfates can strip the hair of its natural oils, leading to dryness and breakage.
- Get regular trims. Trimming your hair will remove split ends and prevent further damage.
- Eat a healthy diet and stay hydrated. A healthy diet and adequate hydration will help to promote hair growth and strength.
Remember, lightening box dyed hair is a process that requires patience and care. By following these guidelines, you can achieve your desired results while minimizing damage to your hair. If you’re unsure about any aspect of the process, consult with a professional hairstylist.
Products to Consider
Choosing the right products is crucial for successful lightening and maintaining healthy hair. Here’s a list of products and ingredients to look for:
- Color Remover: Look for products specifically designed to remove artificial dye without bleach.
- Bleach: If bleaching, opt for a bleach kit with a low-volume developer (10 or 20 volume) and conditioning agents.
- Developer: Lower volumes like 10 and 20 are generally safer for at-home use, causing less damage than higher volumes.
- Toner: Choose a toner that neutralizes unwanted tones (purple for yellow, blue for orange).
- Deep Conditioner: Look for products containing ingredients like keratin, argan oil, or shea butter.
- Sulfate-Free Shampoo and Conditioner: Essential for maintaining moisture and preventing further damage.
- Heat Protectant Spray: Protects hair from heat styling tools.
When to Seek Professional Help
While DIY hair lightening can be tempting, there are situations where seeking professional help is strongly advised:
- Significant Color Correction: If you’re aiming for a drastic color change (e.g., dark brown to blonde), a professional stylist can achieve it safely and effectively.
- Damaged Hair: If your hair is already dry, brittle, or damaged, lightening it yourself can worsen the condition.
- Uneven Color: If you have significant color banding or uneven tones, a professional can even out the color and create a uniform result.
- Lack of Experience: If you’re new to hair lightening, a professional can guide you through the process and prevent costly mistakes.
- History of Allergic Reactions: If you have a history of allergic reactions to hair dye, a professional can perform a patch test and use hypoallergenic products.
Long-Term Hair Care After Lightening
Lightened hair requires ongoing care to maintain its health and vibrancy. Incorporate these practices into your routine:
- Regular Deep Conditioning: Continue using deep conditioning treatments weekly or bi-weekly.
- Protein Treatments: Consider incorporating protein treatments to strengthen the hair shaft.
- Limit Heat Styling: Reduce the frequency of heat styling and always use a heat protectant spray.
- Sun Protection: Protect your hair from sun damage with a hat or UV protectant spray.
- Regular Trims: Get regular trims to remove split ends and prevent breakage.
- Healthy Diet and Hydration: Maintain a healthy diet and stay hydrated to promote overall hair health.
By following these tips, you can keep your lightened box-dyed hair healthy, strong, and beautiful.
Why is it so difficult to lighten box-dyed hair?
Box dyes are notoriously difficult to lighten because they contain metallic salts and a higher concentration of pigment than salon-quality dyes. These metallic salts can react unpredictably with bleach, potentially causing damage, breakage, or even chemical burns. The high pigment concentration also makes it challenging for the lightening agent to penetrate and lift the color effectively, often resulting in brassy or uneven results.
Furthermore, repeated applications of box dye build up layers of pigment, making it even harder to achieve a lighter shade. Each layer needs to be lifted individually, which can require multiple lightening sessions and increase the risk of damage. Trying to lighten box-dyed hair too quickly can lead to significant hair damage, making it crucial to proceed with caution and patience.
What are the safest methods for lightening box-dyed hair at home?
If you’re determined to lighten box-dyed hair at home, the safest methods involve gradual lightening techniques using gentler products. Color removers are designed to lift artificial color without bleach and can be a good first step, especially if you’re trying to remove a dark color. Using a clarifying shampoo regularly can also help to fade the dye over time.
Another option is to use a low-volume developer (10 or 20 volume) with a bleach or lightener specifically formulated for at-home use. Apply the lightener in thin sections, monitoring the hair’s condition closely and rinsing immediately if you notice any signs of damage or breakage. Deep conditioning treatments are essential after any lightening process to help restore moisture and protein to the hair.
How long should I wait between lightening sessions?
Patience is key when lightening box-dyed hair. Ideally, you should wait at least 4-6 weeks between lightening sessions to allow your hair to recover and rebuild its strength. This waiting period allows your hair’s natural oils to replenish and helps minimize damage.
During this waiting period, focus on nourishing your hair with deep conditioning treatments, protein masks, and moisturizing products. Avoid heat styling as much as possible and protect your hair from environmental stressors like sun exposure. Observe your hair closely for signs of damage, such as dryness, breakage, or split ends, and adjust your lightening schedule accordingly.
What are the signs that I should stop lightening my hair and seek professional help?
Several signs indicate that you should immediately stop lightening your hair at home and seek professional help. One of the most obvious signs is significant hair breakage or elasticity loss. If your hair feels gummy or stretchy when wet, or if it snaps easily when pulled, it’s a clear indication of severe damage.
Other warning signs include excessive dryness, frizz, or a burning sensation on your scalp during the lightening process. If you experience any of these symptoms, rinse the lightener out immediately and consult with a professional stylist. Trying to continue lightening damaged hair will only worsen the problem and could lead to irreversible damage or hair loss.
Can I use toner on box-dyed hair after lightening?
Yes, toner can be used on box-dyed hair after lightening, but it’s crucial to choose the right toner and apply it correctly. Toner helps to neutralize unwanted brassy or yellow tones that often appear after lightening, resulting in a more even and desirable color. However, toner will not lighten hair further; it only adjusts the tone.
Before applying toner, ensure that your hair is in relatively good condition, as toner can be slightly drying. Choose a toner that is appropriate for your hair’s undertones and the desired result. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and monitor your hair closely during the toning process. A protein filler should be used before toning if the hair is too porous.
What kind of aftercare is crucial for box-dyed hair that has been lightened?
Aftercare is essential for maintaining the health and integrity of box-dyed hair that has been lightened. Lightening processes can strip the hair of its natural oils and proteins, making it more susceptible to damage and dryness. Therefore, a consistent and targeted aftercare routine is crucial for restoring moisture and strength.
Use sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners specifically formulated for color-treated hair. Incorporate deep conditioning treatments and hair masks into your routine at least once a week. Limit heat styling and always use a heat protectant spray when styling with hot tools. Consider using leave-in conditioners and hair oils to provide additional moisture and protection throughout the day.
How does developer volume affect the lightening process?
Developer volume determines the strength of the lightening process. A higher developer volume will lift color faster but also has a greater potential for damage. A lower developer volume lifts color more gradually and is gentler on the hair. The right choice depends on your hair’s condition, color level, and desired result.
For box-dyed hair, starting with a lower developer volume (10 or 20 volume) is generally recommended, as it allows for more control and reduces the risk of over-processing. This approach allows you to assess how your hair is responding to the lightening process and make adjustments as needed. Using a higher developer volume (30 or 40 volume) on damaged or already processed hair can lead to severe breakage and should only be attempted by experienced professionals.