Brassy hair – it’s the bane of many brunettes’ existence. You achieve that perfect shade of brown, only to find that weeks later, unwanted orange, red, or yellow tones start creeping in. The question then becomes: Can toner rescue your hair from brassiness and restore your desired cool or neutral brown hue? The short answer is yes, but let’s delve deeper into the world of toners and brassy brown hair to understand how they work, which ones are best, and how to use them effectively.
Understanding Brassy Brown Hair
Before tackling the solution, let’s identify the problem. Brassy hair refers to the unwanted warm tones that surface in brown hair, often appearing as orange, red, or yellow hues. This discoloration typically occurs due to a few key reasons.
Why Does Brown Hair Turn Brassy?
Several factors contribute to the development of brassiness. Oxidation of hair dye is a primary culprit. When brown hair dye is exposed to air, sunlight, and water, the pigment molecules break down over time, revealing the underlying warm tones naturally present in your hair.
Another common cause is the lifting process involved in lightening brown hair. When you lighten hair, you’re essentially stripping away its natural pigment. Brown hair contains a significant amount of red and orange pigment, which is often the first to be exposed during the lightening process. If the lightening process isn’t carried out correctly or isn’t taken far enough, these warm tones can remain, resulting in brassiness.
Environmental factors also play a role. Exposure to hard water, chlorine, and UV rays can contribute to brassiness. Hard water contains minerals that can deposit on the hair shaft, causing discoloration. Chlorine, found in swimming pools, can strip away hair dye and expose underlying warm tones. Similarly, prolonged exposure to sunlight can fade hair color and exacerbate brassiness.
Finally, using the wrong hair products can also lead to brassiness. Shampoos and conditioners that aren’t color-safe or that contain harsh sulfates can strip away hair dye and contribute to the development of unwanted warm tones.
What is Hair Toner?
Hair toner is a product designed to neutralize unwanted undertones in hair, such as brassiness. It doesn’t lift or lighten the hair like bleach; instead, it deposits pigment to counteract the undesired tones. Think of it like color correction for your hair.
How Does Toner Work?
Toner works based on the principles of color theory. Colors that are opposite each other on the color wheel neutralize each other. For example, blue neutralizes orange, and violet neutralizes yellow. Toners contain pigments that are designed to counteract specific warm tones.
When you apply toner to brassy brown hair, the toner deposits pigment that cancels out the unwanted orange, red, or yellow hues. This results in a cooler, more neutral, or ashier brown tone.
Types of Hair Toner
Toners come in various forms, each with its own strengths and weaknesses.
Permanent toners contain ammonia and require a developer to open the hair cuticle and deposit pigment. They offer the most significant color change and are best suited for correcting more stubborn brassiness.
Demi-permanent toners contain a low volume of developer and deposit color without significantly lifting the hair. They are a good option for toning brassiness without causing damage.
Semi-permanent toners do not contain ammonia or developer and simply coat the hair shaft with pigment. They are the gentlest option and are ideal for refreshing tone and neutralizing mild brassiness.
Toning shampoos and conditioners are formulated with pigments to neutralize brassiness. They are typically purple or blue and are designed to be used regularly to maintain tone.
Choosing the Right Toner for Brassy Brown Hair
Selecting the correct toner is crucial for achieving the desired results. Consider the specific brassy tones you’re dealing with and your desired end result.
Identifying Your Brassy Tones
Before choosing a toner, carefully assess the color of your brassiness. Is it more orange, red, or yellow? This will determine which toner will be most effective.
For orange tones, a blue-based toner is recommended. For red tones, a green-based toner is most effective. And for yellow tones, a violet-based toner will do the trick.
Understanding Toner Levels
Toners are available in different levels, which correspond to the darkness or lightness of the pigment. Choose a toner level that is close to your desired hair color. Using a toner that is too light won’t effectively neutralize brassiness, while using a toner that is too dark can make your hair appear muddy or dull.
Considering Your Hair’s Condition
The condition of your hair is another important factor to consider. If your hair is damaged or dry, opt for a gentler toner, such as a demi-permanent or semi-permanent formula. Avoid permanent toners, which can further damage already compromised hair.
How to Use Toner on Brassy Brown Hair
Once you’ve chosen the right toner, it’s time to apply it. Follow these steps for best results:
Preparation
Start by performing a strand test to see how the toner will affect your hair. Apply a small amount of toner to a hidden strand of hair and let it process for the recommended time. This will help you avoid any unwanted surprises.
Gather your supplies. You’ll need the toner, developer (if required), a mixing bowl, a tint brush, gloves, and a towel.
Protect your clothing and skin. Wear old clothes and gloves to prevent staining. Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to your hairline to prevent the toner from staining your skin.
Application
Mix the toner and developer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Follow the recommended mixing ratio carefully to ensure the toner works effectively.
Apply the toner to your hair, starting at the roots and working your way to the ends. Ensure that all of your hair is evenly saturated with toner.
Processing Time
Allow the toner to process for the recommended time, which is typically 20-30 minutes. Check your hair periodically to see how the toner is developing. Don’t leave the toner on for longer than recommended, as this can result in unwanted color changes.
Rinsing and Conditioning
Rinse the toner out of your hair with cool water. Shampoo your hair with a color-safe shampoo and condition it with a moisturizing conditioner.
Maintaining Your Toned Brown Hair
Once you’ve toned your brassy brown hair, it’s important to maintain the color and prevent brassiness from returning.
Using Color-Safe Products
Use shampoos and conditioners that are specifically formulated for color-treated hair. These products are gentle and won’t strip away your hair color.
Avoiding Heat Styling
Excessive heat styling can damage your hair and cause the toner to fade more quickly. Minimize your use of heat styling tools, such as flat irons and curling irons. When you do use heat, apply a heat protectant spray to shield your hair from damage.
Protecting Your Hair from the Sun
Sun exposure can fade your hair color and contribute to brassiness. Wear a hat or use a hair product with UV protection when you’re spending time outdoors.
Regular Toning
Depending on how quickly your hair becomes brassy, you may need to tone it every few weeks or months. Regular toning will help maintain your desired color and prevent brassiness from becoming too noticeable. You can use toning shampoos or conditioners in between toner applications to help maintain your color.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Toning Brassy Brown Hair
Toning hair can be tricky, and it’s easy to make mistakes that can lead to unwanted results. Here are some common mistakes to avoid:
Using the Wrong Toner
Using a toner that is not appropriate for your hair color or brassy tones can result in unwanted color changes. Always choose a toner that is specifically designed to counteract your brassiness.
Over-Toning
Leaving the toner on for too long can cause your hair to become too cool or ashy. Always follow the recommended processing time and check your hair periodically.
Applying Toner Unevenly
If you don’t apply the toner evenly, you may end up with patchy or uneven color. Make sure to saturate all of your hair with toner, starting at the roots and working your way to the ends.
Skipping a Strand Test
Skipping a strand test can lead to unexpected results. Always perform a strand test before applying toner to your entire head of hair.
Toner Alternatives for Brassy Brown Hair
While toner is a popular solution for brassy brown hair, there are also other options to consider.
Purple Shampoo
Purple shampoo is a great way to maintain tone and neutralize brassiness in between toner applications. It contains purple pigment that helps to counteract yellow tones.
Blue Shampoo
Blue shampoo is best for neutralizing orange tones in brown hair. It works similarly to purple shampoo but contains blue pigment instead.
Hair Gloss
Hair glosses are semi-permanent treatments that add shine and color to your hair. They can help to neutralize brassiness and enhance your hair’s overall tone.
Professional Color Correction
If you’re struggling to correct brassiness on your own, consider seeking professional help from a colorist. They can assess your hair and create a custom color correction plan to achieve your desired results.
Conclusion: Embrace the Toning Power
Toner can be a powerful tool for banishing brassiness and achieving your perfect shade of brown. By understanding the causes of brassiness, choosing the right toner, and following the proper application techniques, you can effectively neutralize unwanted tones and maintain your desired color. Remember to always prioritize the health of your hair and consider seeking professional help if you’re unsure about the process. With the right knowledge and techniques, you can say goodbye to brassy brown hair and hello to a beautiful, vibrant, and toned brunette mane!
What is brassy brown hair and why does it happen?
Brassy brown hair refers to brown hair that has developed unwanted warm tones, typically orange or red. This usually happens when the underlying warm pigments in the hair become exposed. These underlying pigments are naturally present in brown hair and become more visible as the artificial color fades or is stripped away due to environmental factors or chemical processes.
Several factors contribute to brassiness. Sun exposure, hard water, and frequent washing can all leach the cool tones from colored hair, allowing the warm pigments to surface. Additionally, improper hair lightening or bleaching can also exacerbate brassiness, especially if the hair wasn’t lifted to a sufficiently cool level during the coloring process.
Can toner actually fix brassy brown hair?
Yes, toner can effectively neutralize brassiness in brown hair. Toner works by depositing cool-toned pigments, typically blue or green, to counteract the unwanted orange or red tones. The cool pigments in the toner effectively cancel out the warm pigments, restoring a more balanced and neutral brown hue. Toner is most effective on hair that is already lightened, as it needs a light base to deposit its color properly.
However, toner is not a magic bullet for all types of brassiness. It’s most effective on mild to moderate brassiness. For severely brassy hair, especially if the unwanted tones are very intense, a more drastic color correction process may be necessary, possibly involving multiple toning sessions or even a re-coloring with a deeper brown shade. Consultation with a professional colorist is recommended for significant brassiness.
What type of toner should I use for brassy brown hair?
The ideal toner for brassy brown hair depends on the specific unwanted tones present. If your hair has orange tones, a blue-based toner will be most effective. If your hair has red tones, a green-based toner is a better choice. Many toners are labeled with their specific neutralizing properties, making it easier to select the right one. For a more complex mix of red and orange, a violet-blue toner might be a suitable option.
Always consider your current hair color level when choosing a toner. Toners are typically numbered (e.g., level 7, level 8), and you should select a toner that matches or is slightly lighter than your existing hair color. Using a toner that is too dark can result in an uneven or muddy color. Reading product reviews and descriptions carefully will help you determine the best toner for your specific needs.
How do I apply toner to brassy brown hair?
Before applying toner, always perform a strand test. This involves applying a small amount of toner to a hidden section of your hair to ensure you like the color result and that the toner doesn’t damage your hair. Always wear gloves during application to protect your hands from staining. Mix the toner with the developer according to the product instructions.
Apply the toner evenly to your hair, focusing on the areas that are most brassy. Use a tint brush to ensure thorough and consistent coverage. Allow the toner to process for the recommended time specified on the product instructions. Avoid exceeding the recommended processing time, as this can lead to over-toning and potentially undesirable color results. Rinse thoroughly with cool water and follow with a color-safe conditioner.
How long does toner last on brown hair?
The longevity of toner on brown hair varies depending on several factors, including the porosity of your hair, the frequency of washing, and the products you use. Typically, toner lasts between 2-6 weeks. Porous hair tends to fade toner faster, as it doesn’t hold onto color pigments as well.
To prolong the life of your toner, use color-safe shampoos and conditioners. These products are formulated to be gentle on colored hair and help prevent fading. Avoid washing your hair too frequently and use dry shampoo in between washes to keep your hair clean. Also, minimize exposure to direct sunlight and heat styling, as these can also contribute to color fading.
What can I do to prevent brassiness from returning?
Preventing brassiness requires a consistent hair care routine. Use a color-safe shampoo and conditioner specifically designed for brown hair. These products often contain blue or green pigments that help neutralize brassy tones with each wash. Incorporate a blue or green toning shampoo or mask into your routine once or twice a week to maintain cool tones.
Protect your hair from environmental factors that contribute to brassiness. Use a UV protectant spray when spending time outdoors to shield your hair from sun damage. Consider investing in a shower filter to remove minerals from hard water, which can deposit on your hair and cause discoloration. Minimize heat styling and use heat protectant products when using hot tools to prevent damage and color fading.
When should I see a professional about brassy brown hair?
If you’ve tried toning your hair at home and are unhappy with the results, or if your brassiness is severe and resistant to at-home treatments, it’s best to consult a professional colorist. A professional has the expertise to accurately assess your hair’s color and condition and can formulate a custom color correction plan to address your specific needs. They can also prevent further damage to your hair during the color correction process.
Additionally, if you’re unsure about which toner to use or how to apply it properly, seeking professional advice is recommended. Incorrectly applying toner or using the wrong type can lead to uneven color, damage, or an undesired outcome. A professional colorist can ensure you achieve the desired results while maintaining the health and integrity of your hair.