Dyeing your hair at home or in a salon can be an exciting way to refresh your look and express your personality. However, many people who attempt to achieve cool blonde or brunette shades are often surprised and frustrated when their hair ends up with an unwanted orange or brassy tone. What causes this unwelcome color shift, and how can you prevent it from happening? Let’s delve into the science and art of hair coloring to understand why your hair might be turning orange after dyeing it.
Understanding Hair Color and Underlying Pigments
Before we dive into the reasons behind orange hair, it’s crucial to understand the basics of hair color and the underlying pigments that contribute to its natural shade. Hair color is determined by melanin, which comes in two primary types: eumelanin (responsible for brown and black tones) and pheomelanin (responsible for red and yellow tones).
Everyone has a unique combination of eumelanin and pheomelanin. Darker hair naturally has a higher concentration of eumelanin, while lighter hair has more pheomelanin. When you dye your hair, you’re essentially altering the natural melanin composition by adding artificial pigments.
The Color Wheel Connection
The color wheel is a fundamental tool for understanding color relationships. Orange sits opposite blue on the color wheel, meaning they are complementary colors. This relationship is key to neutralizing unwanted tones in hair. If your hair pulls orange, using a blue-based toner can help cancel out the brassiness.
Why Orange Appears: The Bleaching Process
The most common culprit behind orange hair is the bleaching process. Bleach works by lifting the natural pigment from your hair. It doesn’t simply deposit color; it lightens the existing color by oxidizing the melanin molecules.
Lifting Levels and Exposed Undertones
During bleaching, the different pigments in your hair are lifted in stages. Darker hair goes through several stages of lightening, typically progressing from dark brown to red, then orange, then yellow, and finally to pale yellow or blonde. The appearance of orange means that the hair hasn’t been lifted enough to reach the desired level of lightness. The red and yellow undertones are still present and visible.
Insufficient Bleaching Time or Strength
Several factors can contribute to incomplete bleaching:
- Insufficient Processing Time: If you don’t leave the bleach on long enough, it won’t have sufficient time to lift the hair to the desired level.
- Weak Bleach Developer: The volume of the developer (the hydrogen peroxide mixed with the bleach powder) determines the lifting power. A lower volume developer will lift more gently but may not be strong enough to remove all the underlying pigments, especially in dark hair. Using a developer that is too low will most likely result in orange tones.
- Uneven Application: Inconsistent application of bleach can lead to some sections being lighter than others. Parts that receive less bleach or are processed for less time will likely retain more orange tones.
Dark Hair and the Challenge of Lifting
Darker hair naturally contains more pigment, making it more challenging to lift to a light blonde shade without passing through the orange and yellow stages. Trying to achieve a significant color change (e.g., from dark brown to platinum blonde) in one session is a recipe for disaster and often results in brassy, orange hair. It’s generally recommended to lighten gradually over multiple sessions to minimize damage and control the color outcome.
The Role of Porosity
Hair porosity refers to its ability to absorb and retain moisture. Highly porous hair absorbs color quickly but also releases it quickly, potentially leading to uneven color and fading. Low porosity hair, on the other hand, is resistant to absorbing color, making it more difficult to achieve the desired shade.
Damaged hair is often more porous, which can contribute to the uneven absorption of bleach and toner, resulting in patchy or orange tones.
Toner Troubles: Why It Might Not Be Enough
Toner is a product used to neutralize unwanted undertones in bleached hair. It contains pigments that counteract brassiness, such as blue or purple. While toner can be effective in correcting minor orange tones, it may not be sufficient if the underlying brassiness is too intense.
Incorrect Toner Choice
Choosing the wrong toner can also lead to disappointing results. If your hair is very orange, a toner with a weak blue or purple base may not be strong enough to neutralize the brassiness effectively. It’s crucial to select a toner that is appropriate for the level of orange in your hair.
Insufficient Toner Application
Even with the right toner, improper application can hinder its effectiveness. Toner needs to be applied evenly and thoroughly to ensure that all the orange tones are neutralized. Insufficient processing time can also prevent the toner from fully depositing its pigments.
External Factors Contributing to Brassiness
Even if you achieve the perfect color initially, external factors can cause your hair to turn orange or brassy over time.
Hard Water
Hard water contains high levels of minerals like calcium and magnesium. These minerals can deposit on the hair shaft, creating a film that interferes with color vibrancy and can contribute to brassiness.
Sun Exposure
Prolonged exposure to the sun’s UV rays can fade hair color and oxidize the pigments, leading to unwanted warm tones.
Chlorine
Chlorine in swimming pools can strip hair of its natural oils and cause color fading, often resulting in brassy or greenish tones.
Product Buildup
The buildup of hair products, especially those containing sulfates, can dull the hair and contribute to brassiness.
Preventing and Correcting Orange Hair
Fortunately, there are several steps you can take to prevent and correct orange hair.
Gradual Lightening
If you have dark hair and want to achieve a light blonde shade, opt for a gradual lightening process over multiple sessions. This allows you to control the level of lift and minimize damage.
Strand Test
Before applying bleach or dye to your entire head, perform a strand test. This will help you determine how your hair reacts to the product and how long it needs to process to achieve the desired level of lightness.
Use a High-Quality Bleach and Developer
Invest in professional-grade bleach and developer. The quality of the products can significantly impact the outcome. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
Even Application
Ensure even application of bleach and toner to prevent patchy or uneven results. Use a tint brush and work in small sections to ensure thorough coverage.
Monitor Processing Time
Keep a close eye on the processing time and check your hair periodically. Don’t leave the bleach on longer than recommended, as this can cause damage.
Use a Blue or Purple Shampoo
Incorporate a blue or purple shampoo into your hair care routine. These shampoos contain pigments that neutralize brassy tones and help maintain your desired color. Use them once or twice a week, or as needed.
Use a Water Filter
Install a water filter in your shower to remove minerals and chlorine from your water. This can help prevent color fading and brassiness.
Protect Your Hair from the Sun
Wear a hat or use a UV protectant spray when spending time outdoors to shield your hair from the sun’s damaging rays.
Clarify Regularly
Use a clarifying shampoo periodically to remove product buildup and keep your hair looking vibrant.
Professional Help
If you’re struggling to correct orange hair on your own, seek professional help from a qualified hairstylist. They can assess your hair’s condition and recommend the best course of action. Trying to fix it yourself can potentially cause more damage and further complicate the situation.
In conclusion, orange hair after dyeing is a common problem that often stems from incomplete bleaching, underlying pigments, and external factors. By understanding the science behind hair color and taking preventative measures, you can minimize the risk of unwanted brassiness and achieve the beautiful, vibrant color you desire. Whether it’s through gradual lightening, the strategic use of toners and color-correcting shampoos, or professional intervention, remember that achieving and maintaining your perfect hair color is an ongoing process.
Why did my hair turn orange after dyeing it?
The dreaded orange tinge, often referred to as brassiness, usually appears because the underlying warm tones in your hair have been exposed. When you lighten or dye your hair, you’re essentially lifting the outer layers to deposit new color. Darker hair colors naturally contain red, orange, and yellow pigments. If the dye you used wasn’t strong enough to fully neutralize or cover these underlying warm tones, or if the lifting process wasn’t sufficient to remove them, these pigments will become visible, resulting in the unwanted orange hue.
Another common culprit is improper product selection. Using box dyes can be risky because they are designed as a one-size-fits-all solution. They may not be formulated to adequately address the specific undertones and needs of your hair. Additionally, factors like hard water, sun exposure, and using the wrong hair products can contribute to brassiness over time by stripping the intended color and revealing the underlying warmth.
Is orange hair after dyeing a permanent problem?
Fortunately, orange hair after dyeing is rarely a permanent issue, although it can be quite frustrating. The underlying cause of the brassiness is the presence of warm pigments that were either incompletely lifted or improperly neutralized during the dyeing process. Addressing this requires understanding the color wheel and using corrective tones to counteract the unwanted orange.
The good news is that there are several ways to fix orange hair, from using toning shampoos and conditioners to reapplying a more suitable dye or seeking professional help. The best solution depends on the severity of the brassiness and the overall condition of your hair. With the right approach and proper maintenance, you can definitely achieve the desired color and prevent future orange tones from appearing.
What are the best shampoos to combat orange tones in dyed hair?
The best shampoos for combating orange tones in dyed hair are those specifically formulated as blue shampoos. Blue is directly opposite orange on the color wheel, making it an effective neutralizing agent. These shampoos contain blue pigments that deposit onto the hair shaft, counteracting the orange tones and restoring a cooler, more balanced color. Look for shampoos that are sulfate-free, as sulfates can strip the hair of its color and moisture, potentially exacerbating the problem.
When using a blue shampoo, it’s crucial to follow the instructions carefully. Overuse can result in a bluish or greenish tint, particularly on lighter shades of blonde. Start by using it once or twice a week, gradually increasing the frequency if needed, and always follow with a hydrating conditioner to prevent dryness. Consider alternating with a color-safe shampoo to maintain overall hair health and prevent over-toning.
Can hard water cause my hair to turn orange after dyeing?
Yes, hard water can absolutely contribute to your hair turning orange after dyeing. Hard water contains high levels of minerals like calcium and magnesium, which can build up on the hair shaft over time. This mineral buildup can interfere with the dyeing process, preventing the color from depositing evenly and properly neutralizing underlying warm tones.
Furthermore, these minerals can oxidize and react with the dye, leading to discoloration and brassiness. Over time, the mineral buildup can also strip the hair of its intended color, exposing the underlying orange and red pigments. Investing in a shower filter designed to remove these minerals can significantly reduce the chances of brassiness caused by hard water. Clarifying shampoos, used sparingly, can also help to remove existing mineral buildup.
How can I prevent my hair from turning orange when dyeing it myself?
Preventing orange tones when dyeing your hair at home involves careful planning and execution. Start by accurately assessing your hair’s current color and undertones. Understanding whether your hair is naturally warm or cool will help you choose a dye that effectively neutralizes any unwanted brassiness. Opt for dyes that are specifically formulated for your hair type and intended to neutralize orange or red tones.
Always perform a strand test before applying the dye to your entire head. This will allow you to see how the color develops and whether it effectively neutralizes any underlying warm tones. If the strand test reveals unwanted orange, you may need to choose a different dye with stronger neutralizing properties or consult with a professional colorist for advice. Using a toner after dyeing can also help to fine-tune the color and eliminate any remaining brassiness.
When should I seek professional help for orange hair after dyeing?
Seeking professional help for orange hair after dyeing is advisable in several situations. If you’ve tried various at-home remedies, such as blue shampoos and toners, without achieving the desired results, a professional colorist can provide a more precise and customized solution. Additionally, if your hair is significantly damaged or fragile, attempting further coloring or toning yourself could potentially worsen the condition.
A professional colorist possesses the knowledge and experience to accurately assess your hair’s condition, understand the underlying cause of the orange tones, and formulate a corrective treatment that is both effective and safe for your hair. They can also provide valuable advice on how to maintain your hair’s color and prevent future brassiness. For complex color corrections or significant color changes, consulting a professional is always the safest and most reliable option.
What is hair toner and how does it help with orange hair?
Hair toner is a product designed to neutralize unwanted undertones in hair, such as orange, yellow, or red. It works by depositing pigments that counteract these unwanted tones, creating a more balanced and natural-looking color. Toners typically contain low levels of ammonia or are ammonia-free, making them less damaging than permanent hair dyes.
When used correctly, toner can be a very effective solution for correcting orange hair. It helps to cool down the overall tone, resulting in a more ashy or neutral shade. To use toner effectively, it’s essential to choose a toner that complements your hair’s current level and undertones. The application process usually involves applying the toner to damp hair and allowing it to process for a specific amount of time, as directed by the product instructions. Always perform a strand test before applying toner to your entire head to ensure you achieve the desired result.