Hair dyeing can be an exciting form of self-expression, but sometimes, the results aren’t quite what we anticipate. A common and frustrating experience is dyeing hair red only to find it turning significantly darker, sometimes even black. This unexpected outcome can leave you wondering what went wrong and how to fix it. Let’s delve into the science and common pitfalls that lead to this phenomenon.
Understanding the Basics of Hair Color
Before diving into the specifics of red dye turning hair black, it’s essential to grasp the fundamentals of hair color and how dyes interact with it. Hair color comes from melanin, a pigment produced by cells called melanocytes. There are two main types of melanin: eumelanin (responsible for brown and black shades) and pheomelanin (responsible for red and yellow shades). The ratio of these pigments determines your natural hair color.
Hair dyes work by either depositing color onto the hair shaft (deposit-only dyes) or by lifting the existing color and depositing new color (permanent dyes). Permanent dyes typically use ammonia to open the hair cuticle, allowing the dye molecules to penetrate and react with the hair’s natural pigments.
The Role of Undertones
Every hair color, natural or dyed, has underlying tones or undertones that become visible when the hair is lightened. For example, dark brown hair often has red or orange undertones, while blonde hair might have yellow undertones. These undertones play a crucial role in how a new hair dye interacts with your existing color.
Why Red Dye Might Turn Hair Black
Several factors can contribute to red dye resulting in a black or very dark color. The most common culprits include existing hair color, porosity, dye formulation, developer choice, and previous dye jobs.
The Importance of Existing Hair Color and Undertones
Your starting hair color is a primary determinant of the final outcome. If you’re starting with a dark base color, such as dark brown or black, applying red dye directly might not yield the vibrant red you desire. Instead, the red pigment can mix with the existing dark pigments, creating a muddy, dark, or even blackish hue.
The undertones present in your hair also play a role. If your dark hair already has strong red or orange undertones, adding more red can intensify the darkness, resulting in a color that appears significantly darker than expected.
Porosity and Dye Absorption
Hair porosity refers to its ability to absorb and retain moisture and color. Highly porous hair has a damaged cuticle layer, allowing it to absorb color quickly but also lose it quickly. Low porosity hair has a tightly sealed cuticle, making it resistant to absorbing color.
If your hair is highly porous, it might absorb excessive amounts of the red dye, leading to a buildup of pigment and a darker, less vibrant result. Conversely, if your hair has low porosity, the dye might not penetrate evenly, resulting in a patchy or uneven color.
Dye Formulation and Pigment Concentration
The specific formulation of the red dye can also contribute to the problem. Some red dyes contain a high concentration of blue or violet pigments to counteract brassiness and create a cooler, more intense red. However, if these pigments are overabundant, they can shift the overall color towards a darker, almost black, shade.
Certain brands or specific shades of red might be more prone to this darkening effect than others. It’s crucial to research and read reviews before choosing a red dye, paying attention to experiences others have had with similar hair colors.
Developer Choice and Lift
The developer used with permanent hair dye plays a crucial role in lifting the existing hair color and depositing the new color. A higher volume developer lifts more color, while a lower volume developer lifts less.
If you’re starting with dark hair and use a low volume developer with red dye, the dye might not lift enough of the existing pigment to allow the red to truly shine through. Instead, the red will mix with the existing dark pigments, creating a darker, muddier color.
Conversely, using too high of a developer can cause excessive damage to the hair, making it more porous and prone to absorbing too much pigment, leading to a darker result.
Layering Dyes and Color Build-Up
Repeatedly dyeing your hair, especially with permanent dyes, can lead to color buildup. Each time you dye your hair, pigments are deposited onto the hair shaft, gradually building up and darkening the overall color.
If you’ve been dyeing your hair red for a long time, the repeated application of red dye can eventually lead to a buildup of pigment, resulting in a darker, almost black, shade. This is especially true if you’re using dyes with high pigment concentrations.
Underlying Issues Affecting Hair Colour
Sometimes other problems can affect how your hair accepts and displays hair colour. Hard water contains minerals that can cause hair to become discoloured. Using the wrong after-care products could alter the colour of your hair. Poor rinsing after dyeing your hair may cause pigment build-up that alters the desired hair colour.
Preventing Red Dye From Turning Hair Black
Prevention is always better than cure. Here are some steps you can take to minimize the risk of red dye turning your hair black:
Choosing the Right Red Shade and Brand
Research different red shades and brands to find one that suits your starting hair color and desired outcome. Read reviews and look for swatches on similar hair colors to get a better idea of how the dye will look on your hair.
Consider choosing a red shade that is specifically formulated for dark hair, as these dyes typically contain higher concentrations of red pigment and lifting agents to counteract the existing dark pigments.
Lightening Your Hair Before Applying Red Dye
If you’re starting with dark hair, lightening it before applying red dye can significantly improve the vibrancy and prevent the color from turning too dark. Use a bleach or high-lift dye to lift your hair to a lighter shade, such as light brown or dark blonde, before applying the red dye.
Be cautious when lightening your hair, as excessive bleaching can cause damage. It’s best to consult a professional stylist if you’re unsure about how to lighten your hair safely.
Strand Tests and Patch Tests
Before applying the red dye to your entire head, perform a strand test on a small, hidden section of your hair. This will allow you to see how the dye interacts with your hair and whether it produces the desired color.
Also, perform a patch test on your skin to check for any allergic reactions to the dye. Apply a small amount of the dye to your skin and wait 24-48 hours to see if any irritation occurs.
Choosing the Right Developer Volume
Select the appropriate developer volume based on your starting hair color and desired level of lift. If you’re starting with dark hair, you’ll likely need a higher volume developer to lift the existing pigments and allow the red dye to penetrate effectively.
However, be mindful of the potential for damage with higher volume developers. If your hair is already damaged or fragile, consider using a lower volume developer or consulting a professional stylist.
Avoiding Color Build-Up
To prevent color build-up, avoid repeatedly dyeing your hair with permanent dyes. Consider using semi-permanent or demi-permanent dyes for touch-ups or root maintenance. These dyes deposit color onto the hair shaft without lifting the existing pigments, minimizing the risk of darkening.
Also, use color-safe shampoos and conditioners to help prevent the dye from fading and minimize the need for frequent touch-ups.
Seeking Professional Help
If you’re unsure about how to dye your hair red safely and effectively, or if you’re concerned about the potential for it to turn black, consult a professional hair stylist. A stylist can assess your hair’s condition, recommend the appropriate products and techniques, and help you achieve your desired color without unwanted darkening.
Correcting Red Dye That Turned Hair Black
If your red dye has already turned your hair black, don’t despair. There are several options for correcting the color and achieving the desired red shade:
Color Removal
Color removers are designed to remove artificial pigment from the hair without causing as much damage as bleach. They work by shrinking the dye molecules, allowing them to be washed out of the hair.
Use a color remover according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Be aware that color removers can sometimes leave the hair with a brassy or orange tone, which will need to be corrected with a toner.
Bleach Bath
A bleach bath is a diluted form of bleach that is less damaging than a full bleach application. It can be used to gently lift the dark pigment and reveal more of the red underneath.
Mix bleach with shampoo and developer and apply to the hair for a short period of time, monitoring the color closely. Rinse thoroughly and condition the hair afterwards.
Toning
Toner is used to neutralize unwanted undertones in the hair. If your hair has a brassy or orange tone after color removal or a bleach bath, use a toner with blue or violet pigments to neutralize these tones and create a more balanced color.
Highlighting
Adding highlights to your hair can break up the dark color and add dimension. Use a bleach or high-lift dye to create highlights in your hair, focusing on areas where you want to add brightness.
Patience and Gradual Lightening
Avoid making drastic changes to your hair color all at once, as this can cause significant damage. Instead, gradually lighten your hair over time using gentle techniques, such as color removers and bleach baths.
Professional Color Correction
If you’re unsure about how to correct your hair color yourself, or if your hair is significantly damaged, seek professional help from a hair stylist. A stylist can assess your hair’s condition and recommend the most appropriate course of action to achieve your desired color without further damage.
In conclusion, red dye turning hair black is a common issue that can be caused by a variety of factors. By understanding these factors and taking preventative measures, you can minimize the risk of this happening and achieve the vibrant red hair color you desire. If your hair has already turned black, there are several options for correcting the color, but it’s essential to proceed with caution and seek professional help if needed.
Why did my red hair dye turn my hair black?
This unexpected color change often results from underlying hair tones reacting with the dye. Red dyes, especially darker shades, often contain blue undertones to achieve a rich color. When applied to hair that already has a cool base (like ashy blonde or brown), or has previously been dyed with cool tones, these blue pigments can become overly dominant, resulting in a very dark, almost black appearance.
Another potential cause is porosity. Highly porous hair absorbs color rapidly and deeply. If your hair is damaged or naturally very porous, it might soak up an excessive amount of the red dye’s pigments, particularly the darker blues and violets often present, leading to a darker, more saturated color than intended. Overlapping previously dyed hair can also intensify the color, contributing to the seemingly black transformation.
Could the developer strength be the reason for the color change?
While the dye itself plays a significant role, the developer strength is a crucial factor in the outcome. Using a developer that is too strong can excessively open the hair cuticle, allowing the dye to penetrate too deeply. This deeper penetration can cause the cooler, darker pigments in the red dye to be deposited more intensely, overriding the warmer red tones and resulting in a darker, almost black shade.
Furthermore, a strong developer can potentially react with existing pigments in your hair in unexpected ways. If your hair has undergone prior chemical treatments, the developer can interact with residual chemicals, leading to unpredictable color results. It is always recommended to use the developer strength recommended by the dye manufacturer and consider a strand test to assess the impact of the developer on your hair.
Is it possible the red dye I used was mislabeled or defective?
Although rare, the possibility of a mislabeled or defective hair dye product cannot be entirely dismissed. Manufacturing errors or improper storage conditions could lead to a dye that doesn’t accurately reflect its intended color. Check the dye box and tube carefully for any signs of damage, tampering, or inconsistencies in labeling.
If you suspect a defect, contact the manufacturer immediately. They may be able to provide information about recalls or known issues with specific batches of dye. Providing them with the batch number and purchase details will aid their investigation and potentially lead to a resolution, such as a refund or replacement.
How does my existing hair color affect the outcome of red dye?
Your existing hair color plays a monumental role in how any dye appears. If you started with a dark base, such as dark brown or black, the red dye will likely not be vibrant and may appear more muted or even darken your existing color, rather than creating a true red. Dark hair has a lot of underlying pigment that is difficult for red dye to overcome without pre-lightening.
Similarly, if you have cool-toned hair (ashy blonde or brown), the blue undertones in many red dyes can easily dominate, leading to a muddier or darker result than expected. Pre-lightening with a warmer base color or using a red dye specifically formulated for cool-toned hair can help mitigate this effect. Remember, color theory principles heavily influence hair dyeing outcomes.
Can the brand of red dye I used be responsible for the unexpected black color?
Different brands formulate their red dyes with varying combinations of pigments and developers. A brand known for cooler-toned reds may be more prone to resulting in a darker or even black-like color, especially on hair that already leans towards cool shades. The concentration of blue or violet pigments in a particular brand’s formula could be significantly higher, leading to this unexpected outcome.
Furthermore, the quality of ingredients and manufacturing processes varies between brands. Some brands may use lower-quality pigments that are more prone to fading or reacting unpredictably with existing hair color. Researching different brands and reading reviews regarding their red shades’ tendency to pull dark is beneficial before making a purchase.
What steps can I take to prevent red dye from turning my hair black in the future?
To prevent red dye from turning your hair black, start with a strand test. This crucial step allows you to see how the dye reacts with your hair before applying it all over, preventing unpleasant surprises. Choose a small, inconspicuous section of hair, apply the dye according to the instructions, and observe the color development over the recommended time.
Another essential step is to carefully select a red dye that complements your natural or current hair color. If you have cool-toned hair, opt for a red dye specifically formulated for cool tones or one with a warmer, orange-based undertone. Also, avoid using a developer that is too strong, and carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding application time and rinsing. Consider a professional consultation for tailored advice.
How can I fix hair that has turned black after using red dye?
Fixing hair that has turned black after using red dye requires a careful and patient approach. Start by using a clarifying shampoo to help lift some of the excess dye molecules. Washing your hair with warm water can also help, but avoid excessively hot water, which can damage your hair. Consider using a color remover specifically designed for removing unwanted dye.
If the color change is only slight, a color depositing shampoo or conditioner in a warmer red tone can help to counteract the darkness. For more significant color correction, consult a professional hairstylist. They have the expertise and access to specialized products to safely lift the dark color and achieve your desired red shade without causing excessive damage to your hair.