Thinking of bleaching your hair after using a color remover? It’s a common question, and for good reason. The process can be tricky, and understanding the potential outcomes is essential to avoid damaging your hair. This comprehensive guide breaks down everything you need to know.
Understanding Hair Color Removal and Bleaching
Before diving into the specifics of bleaching after color remover, let’s establish a solid understanding of both processes individually. This foundational knowledge will help you make informed decisions and minimize potential hair damage.
How Hair Color Remover Works
Hair color removers, sometimes called color strippers, are designed to remove artificial dye molecules from the hair shaft. They work by shrinking these dye molecules, making them small enough to be washed out. Unlike bleach, color removers typically do not lift the natural pigment of your hair. They are primarily effective on oxidative dyes, the kind found in permanent and semi-permanent hair color.
Color removers usually contain reducing agents, like sodium hydrosulfite or ascorbic acid (vitamin C). These chemicals break the bonds holding the artificial color in place. It is crucial to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully, as each product may have different application and processing times. Also, remember that a color remover only returns your hair to a state closer to its pre-dyed color – it doesn’t magically erase all traces of previous color.
The Science Behind Bleaching Hair
Bleaching, on the other hand, is a chemical process that permanently lightens hair by oxidizing the natural melanin (pigment) within the hair shaft. Bleach typically contains hydrogen peroxide and an alkalizing agent, such as ammonia. The hydrogen peroxide breaks down the melanin, while the alkalizing agent opens the hair cuticle, allowing the peroxide to penetrate.
The strength of the bleach is determined by the volume of the developer (the hydrogen peroxide solution). Higher volumes lift more pigment but also cause more damage. Bleaching can leave the hair dry, brittle, and prone to breakage if not done correctly. It’s also worth noting that bleach lifts both natural and artificial pigment, so it’s a much more aggressive process than using a color remover.
The Interaction: Bleach After Color Remover
Now that we’ve covered the basics, let’s address the central question: what happens when you bleach your hair after using a color remover? The interaction between these two processes can be complex, and the results can vary depending on several factors.
Potential Risks and Challenges
The most significant risk of bleaching after using a color remover is increased hair damage. Both processes can be harsh on the hair, and layering them can lead to dryness, breakage, and split ends. The hair’s porosity (its ability to absorb moisture) may also be altered, making it more susceptible to damage from subsequent treatments.
Another challenge is uneven results. If the color remover didn’t completely remove all the artificial pigment, bleaching may result in patchy or uneven lightening. Residual dye molecules can react unpredictably with the bleach, leading to unwanted tones like orange, yellow, or even green.
Furthermore, the hair may become sensitized after using a color remover, meaning it’s more prone to irritation and allergic reactions from the bleach. It is always recommended to perform a strand test before applying bleach to the entire head, especially after using a color remover.
Factors Influencing the Outcome
Several factors can influence the outcome of bleaching after color remover. These include:
- The type of color remover used: Different color removers have varying strengths and ingredients. Some may be gentler than others.
- The condition of your hair: Healthy, undamaged hair is more likely to withstand the process than already damaged hair.
- The strength of the bleach: Using a lower volume developer can minimize damage.
- Processing time: Over-processing can lead to significant damage.
- The color history of your hair: Multiple layers of dye can make it more difficult to achieve even results. The types of dyes used previously also have an impact. Some dyes contain metallic salts that can react dangerously with bleach.
- The porosity of your hair: Porous hair absorbs chemicals faster, increasing the risk of damage and uneven color.
Steps to Take Before Bleaching
If you’re considering bleaching your hair after using a color remover, preparation is key. Taking the following steps can help minimize damage and improve your chances of achieving the desired results.
Assessing Hair Health
Before even thinking about bleach, thoroughly assess the health of your hair. Is it dry, brittle, or prone to breakage? If so, focus on deep conditioning and strengthening treatments before proceeding. Look for products containing protein, keratin, or amino acids to help repair damaged strands.
Perform a strand test on a small, inconspicuous section of your hair. This will allow you to see how your hair reacts to the bleach and determine the appropriate processing time. It will also give you an idea of the final color result.
Deep Conditioning and Strengthening Treatments
After using a color remover, your hair will likely be dry and stripped of its natural oils. Deep conditioning treatments are essential to replenish moisture and improve elasticity. Look for masks and conditioners containing hydrating ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, or argan oil.
Protein treatments can also help strengthen the hair shaft and reduce breakage. However, be careful not to overuse protein, as it can make the hair feel stiff and brittle if overdone. Finding the right balance between moisture and protein is crucial.
Consider using bond-building treatments, such as Olaplex or similar products. These treatments work at a molecular level to repair broken bonds within the hair shaft, helping to strengthen and protect the hair from further damage.
Waiting Period: Give Your Hair a Break
Avoid bleaching immediately after using a color remover. Give your hair at least a week or two to recover. During this time, focus on nourishing and hydrating treatments. This waiting period allows the hair’s cuticle to close and helps restore its natural pH balance.
The Bleaching Process: Minimizing Damage
When you’re ready to bleach, proceed with caution. The goal is to lighten your hair effectively while minimizing damage.
Choosing the Right Developer Volume
The developer volume determines the strength of the bleach. Use the lowest volume developer that will achieve your desired level of lift. A 10 or 20 volume developer is generally recommended for minimal damage, especially after using a color remover. Higher volumes (30 or 40) can lift more pigment but are also more likely to cause damage.
Application Techniques
Apply the bleach carefully and evenly, starting with the areas that need the most lightening. Avoid overlapping previously bleached hair, as this can lead to over-processing and breakage. Work in small sections to ensure thorough coverage.
Monitoring and Processing Time
Closely monitor the hair during processing. Check the strand test regularly to see how quickly the bleach is lifting the pigment. Do not exceed the recommended processing time. If you’re not seeing the desired results, it’s better to re-apply bleach at a later time than to over-process the hair.
Rinsing and Neutralizing
Once the bleach has processed, rinse it out thoroughly with cool water. Neutralize the bleach by using a special shampoo or conditioner designed to stop the chemical reaction. This is crucial to prevent further damage.
Post-Bleach Care: Recovery and Maintenance
After bleaching, your hair will require extra care to stay healthy and strong. Implementing a proper post-bleach care routine is essential.
Deep Conditioning and Hydration
Continue to use deep conditioning treatments regularly to replenish moisture and improve elasticity. Look for products containing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, or aloe vera.
Protein Treatments: Use Sparingly
While protein treatments can help strengthen the hair, overuse can lead to dryness and breakage. Use protein treatments sparingly, focusing primarily on hydration.
Avoiding Heat Styling
Heat styling can further damage bleached hair. Minimize the use of heat tools like straighteners, curling irons, and blow dryers. When you do use heat, always apply a heat protectant spray.
Regular Trims
Regular trims can help remove split ends and prevent further damage. Aim to trim your hair every 6-8 weeks.
Color-Safe Products
Use shampoos, conditioners, and styling products that are specifically designed for color-treated hair. These products are formulated to be gentle and help prolong the life of your color.
Dealing with Unwanted Tones
Bleaching can sometimes result in unwanted tones, such as yellow or orange. Here’s how to address them:
Toner Application
Toner is used to neutralize unwanted tones in bleached hair. Purple toner neutralizes yellow tones, while blue toner neutralizes orange tones. Choose the appropriate toner based on the undertones in your hair.
Choosing the Right Toner
When selecting a toner, consider the level of lift you’ve achieved and the specific undertones you want to neutralize. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully, as over-toning can result in ashy or muddy colors.
Application Techniques
Apply the toner evenly to damp hair, focusing on the areas with the most prominent unwanted tones. Process according to the manufacturer’s instructions and rinse thoroughly.
When to Seek Professional Help
If you’re unsure about any part of the process, or if your hair is already severely damaged, it’s best to seek professional help from a qualified hairstylist. A stylist can assess your hair’s condition, recommend the appropriate products and techniques, and minimize the risk of further damage.
They can also help you achieve your desired color while maintaining the health and integrity of your hair. Trying to correct a color disaster at home can often lead to more problems, so it’s best to leave it to the professionals when in doubt.
Bleaching your hair after using a color remover can be a challenging process, but by understanding the potential risks, preparing your hair properly, and following the right techniques, you can minimize damage and achieve beautiful results. Remember to prioritize the health of your hair and seek professional help when needed.
FAQ 1: Why would I bleach my hair after using a color remover?
Color removers work by shrinking the artificial dye molecules in your hair, allowing them to be washed away. They don’t actually lift the pigment like bleach does. If your desired shade is significantly lighter than your current color, even after using a color remover, bleaching becomes necessary to achieve the lightness you need. The color remover essentially provides a cleaner canvas, minimizing the damage that bleaching would cause if applied directly to heavily dyed hair.
Think of it like preparing a painting. The color remover strips away the old layers, getting you closer to the original canvas. However, the original canvas (your natural hair color) still needs to be lightened if you’re aiming for a very pale or bright color. Bleach is then used to lift the remaining pigment, opening up the hair cuticle to allow the new, desired color to penetrate effectively. This approach generally results in a more even and predictable color result than bleaching directly over heavily dyed hair.
FAQ 2: How long should I wait to bleach after using a color remover?
Waiting is crucial to minimize damage. Ideally, wait at least 48 to 72 hours after using a color remover before bleaching your hair. This allows your hair to recover somewhat from the chemical processing. The color remover can leave your hair feeling dry and porous, so giving it time to rehydrate is essential. Avoid using heat styling tools during this waiting period.
During this waiting period, focus on deep conditioning treatments. Use protein-rich masks and moisturizing conditioners to replenish the moisture lost during the color removal process. This strengthens the hair shaft and helps to prevent breakage during the bleaching process. If you can extend the waiting period slightly longer, even better, as it gives your hair more time to bounce back.
FAQ 3: What developer volume should I use when bleaching after a color remover?
Choosing the right developer volume is vital for minimizing damage while achieving the desired lift. Since the color remover has already lightened your hair to some extent, you likely won’t need a high-volume developer. Start with a low volume developer, such as 10 or 20 volume, especially if your hair is already quite light or prone to damage. These lower volumes are gentler and reduce the risk of breakage.
Monitor your hair closely during the bleaching process. If you’re not seeing enough lift after a reasonable amount of time (check the bleach instructions), you might consider using a slightly higher developer volume on your next attempt, but only if your hair feels strong enough. Remember, it’s always better to bleach in multiple sessions with a lower volume than to risk severe damage with a high volume in a single application. Perform a strand test beforehand to gauge how your hair reacts.
FAQ 4: Can bleaching after a color remover damage my hair?
Yes, bleaching after a color remover can damage your hair. Both processes involve chemicals that can strip your hair of its natural oils and proteins, leading to dryness, breakage, and split ends. The extent of the damage depends on several factors, including the condition of your hair before the treatments, the strength of the chemicals used, and the amount of time the chemicals are left on your hair.
However, by taking precautions and following the advice provided in this guide, you can minimize the potential damage. Proper preparation, gentle techniques, and diligent aftercare are essential. Focusing on moisture and protein replenishment is key to maintaining the health and integrity of your hair. Also, avoid overlapping the bleach onto previously bleached areas, as this can cause significant breakage.
FAQ 5: How can I minimize damage when bleaching after using a color remover?
Several steps can be taken to reduce the risk of damage. First, ensure your hair is in the best possible condition before starting. Deep condition regularly in the weeks leading up to the color removal and bleaching process. Second, follow the instructions for both the color remover and the bleach carefully, paying close attention to timing and application techniques. Avoid overlapping the products.
Furthermore, use a bond builder like Olaplex or a similar product. These bond builders help to repair and strengthen the disulfide bonds in your hair, which are broken during chemical processing. After bleaching, focus on intense hydration and protein treatments. Consider using a deep conditioning mask weekly and avoid heat styling as much as possible to allow your hair to recover and rebuild its strength.
FAQ 6: What kind of aftercare is needed after bleaching following a color remover?
Post-bleach aftercare is paramount for restoring your hair’s health. Focus on rehydrating your hair with moisturizing shampoos, conditioners, and deep conditioning masks. Look for products containing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and natural oils such as argan oil or coconut oil. Avoid sulfates and harsh chemicals that can further strip your hair of moisture.
Incorporate protein treatments into your routine, but be mindful not to overdo it, as too much protein can lead to brittleness. Alternate between protein and moisture treatments to maintain a healthy balance. Avoid heat styling as much as possible and use a heat protectant spray when you do use heat. Trim any split ends regularly to prevent them from traveling up the hair shaft and causing further damage.
FAQ 7: What if my hair is still brassy after bleaching following a color remover?
Brassiness, those unwanted yellow or orange tones, is common after bleaching. Using a toner is the most effective way to neutralize these tones and achieve your desired hair color. Choose a toner that complements your desired shade and follow the instructions carefully. Purple toners are typically used to counteract yellow tones, while blue toners are used to neutralize orange tones.
If the brassiness is stubborn, you might need to repeat the toning process. However, avoid over-toning, as this can lead to a dull or muddy color. Consider using a color-depositing shampoo or conditioner in between toning sessions to maintain your desired color and prevent brassiness from returning. These products gradually deposit pigment, helping to keep your hair looking fresh and vibrant.