Grey hair. It’s a natural part of aging, a badge of wisdom for some, and a source of frustration for others. Whether you’re embracing your silver strands or looking to camouflage them, understanding how to treat grey hair with color, especially lightener, is crucial. This comprehensive guide explores the ins and outs of using lightener on grey hair, covering everything from the science behind grey hair to the potential risks and safe application techniques.
Understanding Grey Hair: The Basics
To effectively lighten grey hair, you first need to understand what makes it different from pigmented hair. Grey hair isn’t actually grey; it’s hair that lacks pigment.
The Science of Pigment Loss
Hair gets its color from melanin, a pigment produced by melanocytes in hair follicles. As we age, these melanocytes become less active, producing less melanin. This gradual reduction in melanin results in hair that appears grey, silver, or white. The degree of greying varies from person to person and is influenced by genetics, ethnicity, and even environmental factors.
Why Grey Hair Can Be Different to Lighten
Grey hair often has a different texture and structure compared to pigmented hair. It can be coarser, drier, and less porous. This is due to the reduced production of sebum (natural oil) as we age. The cuticle, the outer layer of the hair shaft, may also be more resistant, making it harder for lightener to penetrate. This resistance can lead to uneven lightening or damage if not handled correctly.
Lightener and Grey Hair: Is It a Good Idea?
The decision of whether or not to use lightener on grey hair depends on several factors, including the percentage of grey hair, the desired outcome, and the overall condition of the hair. While it’s certainly possible to lighten grey hair, it requires careful consideration and the right techniques.
Potential Benefits of Lightening Grey Hair
Lightening grey hair can offer several benefits:
- Blending Grey Hairs: It helps to blend grey hairs with the rest of your natural color, creating a softer, more natural look.
- Creating a Base for Other Colors: Lightening can create a blank canvas for applying other hair colors, allowing for more vibrant and accurate results.
- Adding Dimension and Highlights: Strategic highlights can add dimension and depth to grey hair, making it look fuller and more youthful.
Risks Associated with Lightening Grey Hair
Despite the potential benefits, there are risks involved in lightening grey hair:
- Damage and Breakage: Grey hair is often more fragile than pigmented hair. Lightening can further weaken the hair shaft, leading to breakage and split ends.
- Uneven Results: The resistant nature of grey hair can result in uneven lightening, with some strands lifting faster than others.
- Brassiness: Grey hair tends to have yellow undertones, and lightening can accentuate these tones, resulting in brassiness.
- Dryness and Brittleness: The lightening process can strip the hair of its natural oils, making it dry, brittle, and prone to damage.
- Scalp Irritation: The chemicals in lightener can irritate the scalp, especially if it is already sensitive.
Factors to Consider Before Lightening Grey Hair
Before reaching for the lightener, take these important factors into account:
Percentage of Grey Hair
If you have a small percentage of grey hair (less than 25%), lightening may be a relatively straightforward process. However, if you have a high percentage of grey hair (more than 75%), the process becomes more complex and requires more expertise.
Hair Texture and Condition
Assess the texture and condition of your hair. Is it fine, medium, or coarse? Is it dry, damaged, or healthy? Damaged or very fine hair might not withstand the lightening process well.
Desired Outcome
What are you hoping to achieve with lightening? Are you looking to blend a few grey hairs, create a bright blonde look, or simply add some highlights? Your desired outcome will influence the choice of lightener and the application technique.
Skin Sensitivity
Consider your skin sensitivity. Lighteners contain chemicals that can irritate the scalp. Conduct a patch test before applying the product to your entire head.
Choosing the Right Lightener
Selecting the right lightener is crucial for achieving the desired results while minimizing damage. There are several types of lighteners available, each with its own strengths and weaknesses.
Types of Lighteners
- Powder Lighteners: These are mixed with a developer and are available in various strengths. They are generally the most powerful type of lightener and are suitable for significant color changes.
- Cream Lighteners: These are gentler than powder lighteners and are ideal for subtle lightening or highlighting. They are less likely to cause damage.
- Oil Lighteners: These are the mildest type of lightener and are often used for delicate or damaged hair. They provide a subtle lift and are less likely to cause dryness.
Developer Volume
The developer volume determines the lifting power of the lightener. Lower volumes (10 or 20) are gentler and provide less lift, while higher volumes (30 or 40) provide more lift but can also cause more damage. For grey hair, it’s generally recommended to use a lower volume developer (10 or 20) to minimize damage.
Ammonia Content
Lighteners with high ammonia content are more effective at lifting color but can also be more damaging. Consider using an ammonia-free lightener if you have sensitive hair or scalp.
Step-by-Step Guide to Lightening Grey Hair Safely
If you’ve decided to lighten your grey hair, follow these steps to minimize damage and achieve the best possible results. Always prioritize hair health over achieving a drastic color change in one session.
Preparation is Key
Before you begin, gather all the necessary supplies:
- Lightener
- Developer (10 or 20 volume)
- Mixing bowl and applicator brush
- Gloves
- Old towel or cape to protect clothing
- Timer
- Deep conditioner
Patch Test
Perform a patch test 48 hours before applying the lightener to your entire head. Apply a small amount of the lightener mixture to a discreet area of skin, such as behind your ear or on your inner arm. If you experience any irritation, redness, or itching, do not use the product.
Protect Your Hair
Apply a deep conditioning treatment to your hair a few days before lightening to help protect it from damage. Avoid washing your hair for 24-48 hours before lightening, as the natural oils will help protect your scalp.
Mixing and Application
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for mixing the lightener and developer. Always use the recommended ratio. Apply the mixture evenly to your hair, starting at the roots, where grey hair is typically most concentrated. Work your way down to the ends.
Processing Time
The processing time will depend on the type of lightener used and the desired level of lift. Check your hair frequently during processing to ensure it’s not becoming damaged. Do not exceed the maximum recommended processing time.
Rinsing and Toning
Once the processing time is complete, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water. Apply a toner to neutralize any unwanted yellow or orange tones. Toning is essential for achieving a natural-looking blonde or silver result on grey hair.
Deep Conditioning
After toning, apply a deep conditioning treatment to restore moisture and hydration to your hair. Leave the conditioner on for at least 15-20 minutes before rinsing.
Aftercare Tips for Lightened Grey Hair
Proper aftercare is essential for maintaining the health and appearance of lightened grey hair.
Hydration is Key
Use moisturizing shampoos and conditioners designed for color-treated hair. Apply a deep conditioning treatment at least once a week.
Minimize Heat Styling
Heat styling can further damage lightened hair. Minimize the use of heat styling tools such as blow dryers, curling irons, and straighteners. When you do use heat, apply a heat protectant spray.
Protect from the Sun
Sun exposure can fade hair color and damage the hair shaft. Wear a hat or use a hair product with UV protection when spending time outdoors.
Regular Trims
Get regular trims to remove split ends and prevent breakage.
When to Seek Professional Help
While it’s possible to lighten grey hair at home, it’s often best to seek professional help, especially if you have a high percentage of grey hair, damaged hair, or are looking for a significant color change. A professional stylist can assess your hair’s condition, recommend the appropriate lightener and developer, and apply the product safely and effectively. A professional can also provide personalized advice on how to maintain the health and appearance of your lightened grey hair.
Addressing Common Concerns
Lightening grey hair can bring about a lot of concerns. Let’s address some common anxieties.
Dealing with Brassiness
Brassiness is a common problem when lightening grey hair. To combat brassiness, use a purple shampoo or toner. Purple shampoo contains violet pigments that neutralize yellow tones.
Preventing Damage
To prevent damage, use a low-volume developer, avoid over-processing, and use a deep conditioning treatment regularly. Protein treatments can also help strengthen and repair damaged hair.
Achieving Even Results
To achieve even results, apply the lightener evenly and monitor the processing time closely. If you notice any areas that are lifting faster than others, you can isolate them with foil or cotton to prevent further lightening.
Alternatives to Lightening Grey Hair
If you’re hesitant to use lightener on your grey hair, there are several alternative options to consider.
Grey Blending
Grey blending involves using lowlights or highlights to gradually blend grey hairs with your natural color. This technique is less damaging than lightening and can create a more natural-looking result.
Grey Coverage
Grey coverage involves using permanent or semi-permanent hair color to completely cover grey hairs. This is a good option if you want to eliminate grey hair altogether.
Embrace Your Grey
Embracing your grey hair is a beautiful and empowering choice. With the right haircut and styling products, you can rock your silver strands with confidence. Using purple shampoo can help keep your grey hair bright and shiny.
Can you use lightener (bleach) directly on grey hair?
Lightener, also known as bleach, can be used on grey hair, but it’s crucial to proceed with caution. Grey hair tends to be more resistant and can react differently to chemical processes compared to pigmented hair. The lack of natural pigment makes it more prone to damage, dryness, and breakage when exposed to strong chemicals like bleach. Therefore, a lower volume developer and careful monitoring are essential to prevent over-processing and ensure the health of your hair.
Directly applying lightener without proper assessment and preparation can result in uneven lifting, brassiness, or even chemical damage that compromises the integrity of the hair shaft. It’s highly recommended to perform a strand test first to determine the appropriate processing time and developer volume for your specific hair type and grey percentage. Consulting with a professional hairstylist experienced in working with grey hair is always the best approach to achieve the desired lightening effect safely and effectively.
What volume developer should I use when lightening grey hair?
When lightening grey hair, selecting the appropriate developer volume is vital to minimize damage and achieve the desired lift. Generally, a lower volume developer like 10 or 20 volume is recommended for grey hair. These lower volumes process slower, allowing for more controlled lifting and reducing the risk of over-processing, which is particularly important for hair that already lacks pigment and may be more fragile.
Using a higher volume developer (30 or 40 volume) can indeed lift the hair faster, but the increased speed also comes with a significantly higher risk of damage, dryness, and breakage, especially on grey hair. These higher volumes are typically reserved for resistant hair types or when aiming for a dramatic color change. It’s always best to start with a lower volume and gradually increase if needed, while closely monitoring the hair’s condition throughout the lightening process.
How does grey hair react differently to lightener compared to pigmented hair?
Grey hair reacts differently to lightener due to the absence of melanin, the pigment that gives hair its color. Melanin provides a natural buffer against chemical processes, so when it’s absent in grey hair, the hair shaft becomes more vulnerable to damage. The cuticle layer, which protects the inner cortex, may also be more raised or porous in grey hair, allowing chemicals to penetrate more quickly and potentially causing over-processing.
This heightened sensitivity means that grey hair can dry out faster, become brittle, and be more susceptible to breakage during lightening. The lack of natural pigment also makes grey hair more prone to brassiness, as underlying warm tones become more prominent when the hair is lightened. Therefore, extra care and attention are needed when lightening grey hair to maintain its health and achieve a desirable, even tone.
How can I prevent brassiness when lightening grey hair?
Preventing brassiness when lightening grey hair requires a multi-faceted approach that starts with the right products and techniques. Using a lightener with a built-in toner or incorporating a purple shampoo or toner into your routine after lightening can help neutralize yellow and orange tones, preventing brassiness from appearing. Choosing a cool-toned lightener can also reduce the likelihood of warm undertones emerging.
Maintaining a consistent toning routine is essential to combat brassiness in between lightening sessions. Purple shampoos and conditioners should be used regularly, but not excessively, to avoid over-toning and a dull or ashy appearance. Additionally, using color-safe shampoos and conditioners and protecting your hair from heat styling can help preserve your toner and keep brassiness at bay.
What steps should I take to prepare my grey hair before lightening?
Preparing grey hair before lightening is critical to minimize damage and ensure even color distribution. A deep conditioning treatment or hair mask a few days before the lightening process can help hydrate and strengthen the hair, making it more resilient to chemical processing. Avoid washing your hair for at least 24-48 hours before lightening, as the natural oils act as a protective barrier.
Additionally, consider using a protein treatment to help fortify the hair structure, particularly if your hair is already damaged or prone to breakage. Performing a strand test 48 hours before the full application is crucial to assess how your hair will react to the lightener and determine the appropriate processing time and developer volume. This preventative measure can save you from potential disasters and ensures you achieve the desired results safely.
Can I use lightener on grey hair that has previously been colored?
Lightening grey hair that has been previously colored introduces additional complexities and risks. Prior color treatments can leave residue on the hair shaft, potentially interfering with the lightening process and leading to uneven lifting or unexpected color results. The chemicals from previous coloring may also have already weakened the hair, making it more vulnerable to damage from further chemical processing.
In these cases, it’s highly recommended to consult with a professional hairstylist who can assess the condition of your hair and develop a personalized lightening plan. They may recommend a color remover to gently lift the old color before applying lightener or use specialized techniques to minimize damage. Attempting to lighten previously colored hair at home can easily lead to irreparable damage and undesirable color outcomes.
What aftercare is recommended after lightening grey hair?
Proper aftercare is crucial for maintaining the health and color of your lightened grey hair. Immediately after lightening, use a deep conditioning treatment or hair mask to replenish moisture and help restore the hair’s natural elasticity. Avoid washing your hair for at least 48 hours to allow the cuticle layer to close and prevent color fading.
Incorporate a regular moisturizing routine that includes color-safe shampoos, conditioners, and leave-in treatments formulated for bleached or chemically treated hair. Minimize heat styling and always use a heat protectant spray when using blow dryers, flat irons, or curling irons. Regular trims will also help remove split ends and keep your hair looking healthy and vibrant.