Bleaching coily hair can feel like navigating a complex maze. The beautiful, tightly-wound structure of coily hair (Type 4A, 4B, and 4C) makes it particularly vulnerable to damage from harsh chemical processes like bleaching. However, achieving lighter, brighter shades is absolutely possible with the right knowledge, preparation, and aftercare. This comprehensive guide will walk you through every step, ensuring you minimize damage and maximize the vibrancy of your colored coils.
Understanding Coily Hair and Bleach
Coily hair possesses unique characteristics that demand a specialized approach to bleaching. The tightly coiled structure makes it harder for natural oils to travel down the hair shaft, leading to inherent dryness and fragility. Bleach, by its very nature, lifts the hair’s cuticle to penetrate the cortex and dissolve melanin, the pigment that gives hair its color. This process weakens the hair’s protein structure, making it more susceptible to breakage and dryness.
Therefore, understanding these factors is critical before even considering bleach. Proper preparation and gentle application are key to protecting your coils.
Porosity and Coily Hair
Hair porosity refers to its ability to absorb and retain moisture. Coily hair often has low porosity, meaning the cuticle scales are tightly closed, making it difficult for moisture to penetrate. However, bleaching can alter the porosity, often increasing it and making the hair more prone to dryness if not properly cared for.
Knowing your hair’s porosity before bleaching is crucial. Perform a simple float test: Place a few strands of clean, dry hair in a glass of water. If the hair floats on top, it has low porosity. If it sinks slowly, it has medium porosity. If it sinks quickly, it has high porosity. High porosity hair requires extra protein treatments to strengthen the hair shaft before and after bleaching.
The Risks of Bleaching Coily Hair
Bleaching coily hair without caution can lead to severe damage. This includes excessive dryness, breakage, split ends, loss of curl definition, and even chemical burns on the scalp. Over-processing the hair can permanently alter its structure, leading to irreversible damage and requiring drastic measures like cutting off the damaged sections.
Preventative measures and diligent aftercare are essential for minimizing these risks.
Preparing Your Coily Hair for Bleach
Preparation is the cornerstone of a successful and damage-controlled bleaching process. The healthier and stronger your hair is beforehand, the better it will withstand the chemical treatment.
Deep Conditioning and Strengthening Treatments
In the weeks leading up to your bleaching session, focus on deep conditioning treatments to hydrate your hair and protein treatments to strengthen the hair shaft. Use moisturizing deep conditioners at least once a week to replenish lost moisture and improve elasticity. Protein treatments, such as those containing keratin or amino acids, help to rebuild the hair’s protein structure and reduce breakage.
Alternate between moisturizing and protein treatments to maintain a healthy balance. Too much protein can make hair brittle, so avoid overdoing it.
Trimming Split Ends
Split ends are a sign of damage and can travel up the hair shaft, causing further breakage. Trimming split ends before bleaching will prevent existing damage from worsening and ensure a more even and healthy result.
A trim of just a quarter or half an inch can make a significant difference.
The Importance of a Strand Test
A strand test is absolutely non-negotiable. Before applying bleach to your entire head, test it on a small, inconspicuous section of hair, preferably at the nape of your neck. This will allow you to assess how your hair reacts to the bleach, how long it takes to reach the desired level of lift, and whether you experience any adverse reactions.
The strand test provides valuable insights and prevents potential disasters. Document the process, including the bleach volume, processing time, and resulting hair condition.
Choosing the Right Bleach and Developer
Selecting the appropriate bleach and developer is crucial for achieving your desired results while minimizing damage. Different developers have different strengths, measured in volume, which determine how quickly and effectively the bleach lifts the hair.
Understanding Developer Volumes
Developer volume indicates the percentage of hydrogen peroxide it contains. Lower volumes (10 or 20) are gentler and result in slower lift, making them suitable for fine or damaged hair or for achieving subtle lightening. Higher volumes (30 or 40) lift the hair faster and more dramatically but are also more damaging.
For coily hair, it’s generally recommended to use a lower volume developer (10 or 20) to minimize damage. Patience is key when bleaching coily hair. Avoid the temptation to use a higher volume developer for faster results, as this can lead to severe breakage.
Types of Bleach: Powder vs. Cream
Bleach comes in two main forms: powder and cream. Powder bleach is typically stronger and more effective at lifting the hair, while cream bleach is gentler and more moisturizing.
For coily hair, cream bleach is often preferred because it tends to be less drying. If using powder bleach, consider adding a moisturizing additive, such as coconut oil or a bond builder, to the mixture.
The Role of Bond Builders
Bond builders, such as Olaplex or similar products, are designed to protect and repair the hair’s bonds during the bleaching process. They help to minimize damage by strengthening the hair’s internal structure and reducing breakage.
Adding a bond builder to your bleach mixture is highly recommended for coily hair. It can significantly improve the health and integrity of your hair after bleaching. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully when using bond builders.
The Bleaching Process: Step-by-Step
Once you’ve prepared your hair and chosen the right products, it’s time to begin the bleaching process. This requires careful attention to detail and a methodical approach to ensure even coverage and minimize damage.
Sectioning Your Hair
Divide your hair into small, manageable sections using clips. This will ensure that you can apply the bleach evenly and thoroughly, preventing missed spots and uneven lifting.
Smaller sections are especially important for coily hair, as the tight coils can make it difficult to reach all areas.
Applying the Bleach
Mix the bleach and developer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Apply the mixture to your hair, starting at the roots and working your way down to the ends. Be sure to saturate each section completely, ensuring that all strands are coated evenly.
Avoid applying bleach directly to the scalp, as this can cause irritation and chemical burns. Leave about a quarter-inch of space between the scalp and the bleach.
Processing Time and Monitoring
The processing time will vary depending on the volume of developer you’re using and the desired level of lift. Check the strand test regularly to monitor the progress.
Do not exceed the maximum recommended processing time for the bleach you are using. Over-processing can lead to severe damage.
Rinsing and Neutralizing
Once the hair has reached the desired level of lift, rinse it thoroughly with cool water. Then, use a neutralizing shampoo to stop the bleaching process and restore the hair’s pH balance.
Neutralizing shampoo is essential for preventing further damage after bleaching.
Post-Bleach Care for Coily Hair
The work doesn’t stop after rinsing out the bleach. Post-bleach care is just as crucial as the bleaching process itself for maintaining the health and integrity of your coily hair.
Deep Conditioning Treatments
Immediately after bleaching, treat your hair with a deep conditioning mask to replenish lost moisture and repair damage. Choose a mask that is specifically designed for color-treated or damaged hair.
Apply the mask generously and leave it on for at least 30 minutes. You can also use a hooded dryer or steamer to enhance the mask’s effectiveness.
Protein Treatments
Continue to incorporate protein treatments into your hair care routine to strengthen the hair shaft and reduce breakage. However, be mindful of overdoing it, as too much protein can make hair brittle.
Alternate between moisturizing and protein treatments to maintain a healthy balance.
Low Manipulation Styles
Minimize manipulation and styling to prevent further damage and breakage. Opt for low-manipulation styles, such as braids, twists, or buns, that require minimal combing or brushing.
Avoid heat styling as much as possible. If you must use heat, apply a heat protectant spray beforehand.
Moisturizing Regularly
Coily hair tends to be naturally dry, and bleaching can exacerbate this issue. Moisturize your hair regularly with leave-in conditioners, oils, and creams to keep it hydrated and prevent breakage.
Pay particular attention to the ends of your hair, as they are the most prone to dryness and damage.
Protecting Your Hair at Night
Protect your hair at night by sleeping on a silk or satin pillowcase or wrapping your hair in a silk or satin scarf. This will help to reduce friction and prevent breakage.
Avoid cotton pillowcases, as they can absorb moisture and lead to dryness.
Toning Your Bleached Hair
Bleaching often leaves hair with unwanted yellow or orange undertones. Toner helps to neutralize these undertones and create a more desirable shade.
Choosing the Right Toner
Toner comes in various shades, designed to neutralize specific undertones. Blue toner neutralizes orange undertones, while purple toner neutralizes yellow undertones.
Choose a toner that is appropriate for the undertones in your hair.
Applying Toner
Apply the toner to your hair according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Be sure to saturate each section completely and leave the toner on for the recommended processing time.
Monitor the toner’s progress carefully to avoid over-toning, which can result in ashy or muddy tones.
Maintaining Your Color
Use color-safe shampoos and conditioners to prevent fading and maintain the vibrancy of your color. Avoid products that contain sulfates, as they can strip the hair of its natural oils and cause dryness.
Consider using a color-depositing shampoo or conditioner to refresh your color between toning sessions.
When to Seek Professional Help
While it’s possible to bleach coily hair at home, it’s always best to consult with a professional stylist who specializes in textured hair. A professional can assess your hair’s condition, recommend the appropriate products and techniques, and ensure that the bleaching process is performed safely and effectively.
If you’re unsure about any aspect of the bleaching process, or if you have concerns about the health of your hair, seek professional help. They can also help you achieve the desired color without compromising the health and integrity of your coils.
Ultimately, bleaching coily hair requires a delicate balance of knowledge, preparation, and aftercare. By understanding the unique characteristics of your hair, following these guidelines, and seeking professional help when needed, you can achieve stunning, vibrant color while minimizing damage and preserving the health of your beautiful coils. Remember, patience and a gentle approach are paramount to success.
What are the biggest risks associated with bleaching coily hair?
Coily hair, due to its unique structure and natural dryness, is inherently more fragile than other hair types. Bleaching, by its very nature, weakens the hair’s protein structure, making it susceptible to breakage, dryness, and damage. Over-processing, using too high of a volume developer, or leaving the bleach on for too long can lead to significant damage, including severe breakage, loss of curl definition, and increased porosity, making the hair prone to frizz and tangles.
Another significant risk is uneven lift and inconsistent results. The tightly coiled pattern can make it challenging to evenly distribute the bleach, resulting in patchy or brassy tones. Furthermore, previously processed or damaged areas may lift faster than healthier sections, leading to uneven color and further compromising the hair’s integrity. Careful application and monitoring are crucial to mitigate these risks.
How can I prepare my coily hair for bleaching?
Prior to bleaching, it’s essential to strengthen and hydrate your hair to minimize potential damage. Implement a deep conditioning routine for several weeks leading up to the bleaching process, focusing on products rich in protein and moisture. Consider using protein treatments like keratin or rice water rinses to fortify the hair shaft, followed by moisturizing masks containing ingredients like shea butter, avocado oil, or coconut oil to replenish hydration and elasticity.
Additionally, avoid heat styling, chemical relaxers, and other harsh treatments in the weeks leading up to bleaching. This allows your hair to recover and build up its strength, making it more resilient to the bleaching process. A strand test is also highly recommended to assess how your hair reacts to the bleach and to determine the appropriate developer volume and processing time.
What volume developer should I use when bleaching coily hair?
Choosing the right developer volume is crucial to achieving the desired lift while minimizing damage to coily hair. Lower volume developers, such as 10 or 20 volume, are generally recommended for subtle lightening or depositing color. These lower volumes lift the hair at a slower rate, reducing the risk of over-processing and damage, making them ideal for gradual lightening or toning.
Higher volume developers, such as 30 or 40 volume, are more potent and lift the hair faster, but they also carry a greater risk of damage. These volumes are typically best left to experienced professionals who can carefully monitor the bleaching process and minimize potential damage. For coily hair, especially if it is already fragile or damaged, sticking to a lower volume developer (10 or 20) is the safest approach.
How do I properly apply bleach to coily hair to ensure even coverage?
Achieving even bleach coverage on coily hair requires careful sectioning and precise application. Divide your hair into small, manageable sections, using clips to keep them separate. This allows you to thoroughly saturate each strand with the bleach mixture, ensuring consistent lifting and minimizing the risk of missed spots or uneven tones.
Apply the bleach mixture to the hair shaft, starting from the roots and working your way down to the ends. Use a tint brush to carefully paint the bleach onto each section, ensuring that every strand is fully coated. Avoid overlapping previously bleached sections, as this can lead to over-processing and breakage. Continuously monitor the hair during processing and adjust the application as needed to ensure even lift.
How often should I bleach my coily hair?
Due to the delicate nature of coily hair, it’s crucial to space out bleaching sessions to minimize damage. Ideally, you should wait at least 8-12 weeks between bleaching appointments, allowing your hair ample time to recover and rebuild its strength. Frequent bleaching can lead to severe breakage, dryness, and loss of curl definition.
Consider focusing on root touch-ups instead of bleaching the entire head of hair each time. This helps to maintain the desired color while minimizing the overall damage. Incorporate regular deep conditioning treatments and protein masks into your hair care routine to replenish moisture and strengthen the hair in between bleaching sessions.
What post-bleach care is essential for maintaining healthy coily hair?
After bleaching, it’s essential to prioritize moisture and protein to help repair and strengthen the hair. Deep conditioning treatments should become a regular part of your hair care routine, focusing on products that contain ingredients like shea butter, avocado oil, honey, and aloe vera. These ingredients help to replenish moisture, reduce frizz, and improve the overall health and elasticity of the hair.
Protein treatments are also crucial for rebuilding the hair’s structure and preventing breakage. Use protein masks or treatments like keratin or rice water rinses to fortify the hair shaft. However, avoid overusing protein, as it can lead to dryness and stiffness. Balance protein treatments with moisturizing treatments to maintain the optimal balance of moisture and protein in your hair.
What are some signs that my coily hair is damaged from bleaching, and what should I do?
Signs of bleach damage in coily hair include increased breakage, excessive dryness, a rough or straw-like texture, loss of curl definition, and increased porosity (hair that absorbs water quickly but also loses moisture rapidly). You might also notice split ends, tangles that are difficult to manage, and a lack of elasticity, meaning your hair doesn’t bounce back easily when stretched.
If you notice these signs, immediately adjust your hair care routine to prioritize moisture and protein. Reduce or eliminate heat styling, chemical treatments, and other harsh practices. Focus on deep conditioning treatments, protein masks, and moisturizing leave-in conditioners to replenish moisture and strengthen the hair. In severe cases, consult with a professional stylist who specializes in damaged hair for personalized recommendations and potentially a trim to remove damaged ends.