Spandex, also known as Lycra or elastane, has revolutionized the garment industry. Its incredible stretch and recovery make it ideal for everything from athletic wear and swimwear to form-fitting dresses and dance costumes. However, this very elasticity presents a unique challenge when it comes to hemming. A poorly executed hem on spandex can lead to puckering, stretching, or even unraveling, ruining the entire garment. This comprehensive guide will walk you through various methods for hemming spandex, ensuring a professional and durable finish every time.
Understanding the Challenges of Hemming Spandex
Before diving into the techniques, it’s crucial to understand why spandex is so different from other fabrics. Its stretchiness is both its strength and its weakness when it comes to hemming.
Spandex is a synthetic fiber composed of long-chain polymers. These polymers allow the fabric to stretch significantly and then return to its original shape. When you sew a regular hem on spandex without taking precautions, the stitches can restrict the fabric’s natural stretch, leading to tension and puckering.
Another challenge is the fabric’s tendency to slip and slide under the presser foot. The smooth surface can make it difficult to maintain even stitching, resulting in a wavy or uneven hemline. Finally, the cut edges of spandex can easily fray, particularly if the fabric is a knit blend. This necessitates proper edge finishing before hemming.
Essential Tools and Materials
Having the right tools and materials is half the battle when hemming spandex. Here’s a list of essentials:
- Sewing Machine: A sewing machine with adjustable stitch length and width is essential. A serger can also be used for edge finishing.
- Ballpoint or Stretch Needle: These needles have a rounded tip that pushes the fibers aside rather than piercing them, preventing runs and snags.
- Polyester Thread: Polyester thread has some give and is less likely to break than cotton thread when the fabric stretches.
- Walking Foot or Teflon Foot: These presser feet help feed the fabric evenly, preventing it from slipping.
- Pins: Use ballpoint pins or fine pins to avoid damaging the fabric.
- Measuring Tape and Ruler: Accurate measurements are crucial for a straight and even hem.
- Scissors or Rotary Cutter: Sharp scissors or a rotary cutter are needed for clean and precise cuts.
- Iron and Ironing Board: Proper pressing is essential for a professional finish. Use a low to medium heat setting.
- Steam-A-Seam or Hem Tape: These fusible tapes can help stabilize the hem and prevent it from stretching while sewing.
- Stabilizer: A lightweight fusible stabilizer can be used to prevent stretching, especially on delicate spandex fabrics.
- Serger (Optional): A serger is useful for finishing raw edges to prevent fraying.
Preparing the Fabric for Hemming
Proper preparation is key to a successful hem. Follow these steps to ensure your spandex is ready for sewing:
- Pre-Wash the Fabric: Always pre-wash your spandex fabric before cutting and sewing. This will help prevent shrinkage after the garment is finished.
- Cutting: Use a sharp rotary cutter or fabric scissors to cut your fabric. A rotary cutter and mat can help you make precise and even cuts.
Finishing the Raw Edge: Spandex is prone to fraying, especially at the cut edges. Finishing the raw edge before hemming is crucial for a clean and durable finish.
- Serging: Serging is the most common method for finishing spandex edges. A serger creates a clean, overlocked edge that prevents fraying.
- Zigzag Stitch: If you don’t have a serger, a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine can also be used to finish the edge.
- Overcast Stitch: Many sewing machines have an overcast stitch that mimics the look of a serged edge.
- Binding: Use a bias tape to bind the edge. This creates a clean, professional finish and can add a decorative touch.
Pressing: Press the hem allowance before sewing. This will help the hem lie flat and make it easier to sew. Use a low to medium heat setting and a pressing cloth to protect the fabric.
Hemming Techniques for Spandex
There are several hemming techniques that work well for spandex fabric. The best technique will depend on the type of fabric, the desired look, and your sewing skills.
The Zigzag Stitch Hem
The zigzag stitch is a versatile option for hemming spandex, offering flexibility and preventing puckering.
- Setting Up Your Machine: Use a ballpoint or stretch needle and polyester thread. Adjust your stitch length and width to a medium setting. Test on a scrap of fabric to find the settings that work best for your fabric.
- Folding and Pressing: Fold the hem allowance to the desired width and press.
- Sewing the Hem: Sew along the folded edge with a zigzag stitch, making sure the needle catches both layers of fabric. Slightly stretch the fabric as you sew to prevent puckering.
- Trimming (Optional): Trim any excess fabric close to the stitching.
The Stretch Stitch Hem
Many modern sewing machines have a built-in stretch stitch, often resembling a lightning bolt or a triple straight stitch. This stitch is specifically designed for stretchy fabrics like spandex.
- Selecting the Stretch Stitch: Choose the appropriate stretch stitch on your sewing machine.
- Folding and Pressing: Fold the hem allowance to the desired width and press.
- Sewing the Hem: Sew along the folded edge with the stretch stitch. The stitch will allow the fabric to stretch without breaking.
- Trimming (Optional): Trim any excess fabric close to the stitching.
The Coverstitch Hem
A coverstitch machine creates a professional-looking hem with two or three rows of stitching on the right side of the fabric and a looper thread covering the raw edge on the wrong side. This technique is commonly used in ready-to-wear athletic wear.
- Using a Coverstitch Machine: Set up your coverstitch machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Folding and Pressing: Fold the hem allowance to the desired width and press.
- Sewing the Hem: Guide the fabric under the presser foot, ensuring the raw edge is caught by the looper thread.
- Finishing: Secure the threads at the beginning and end of the seam.
The Rolled Hem
A rolled hem is a delicate finish that is ideal for lightweight spandex fabrics. It creates a narrow, barely visible hem.
- Using a Serger with a Rolled Hem Foot: A serger with a rolled hem foot is the easiest way to create a rolled hem.
- Adjusting the Serger: Adjust the serger settings according to the manufacturer’s instructions for a rolled hem.
- Sewing the Hem: Guide the fabric through the serger, allowing the rolled hem foot to create a narrow, rolled edge.
- Alternative: Sewing Machine Rolled Hem: If you don’t have a serger with a rolled hem foot, you can create a faux rolled hem with your sewing machine. Sew a narrow zigzag stitch close to the edge. Then, trim the fabric close to the stitching. Turn the fabric over, fold up to just cover the stitching line, and then edge stitch.
The Blind Hem
A blind hem is a nearly invisible hem that is perfect for garments where you want a clean, seamless look.
- Using a Blind Hem Foot: Use a blind hem foot on your sewing machine.
- Folding the Hem: Fold the hem allowance to the desired width. Fold the hem back on itself, leaving a small portion extending beyond the fold.
- Sewing the Hem: Position the fabric under the blind hem foot, aligning the fold with the guide. The needle should catch a few threads of the main fabric with each stitch.
- Pressing: Unfold the hem and press. The stitches should be barely visible on the right side of the fabric.
Using Hem Tape or Steam-A-Seam
Fusible hem tape or Steam-A-Seam can be used to create a no-sew hem or to stabilize the hem before sewing.
- Applying the Tape: Place the hem tape or Steam-A-Seam between the folded hem and the main fabric.
- Fusing the Hem: Press the hem with an iron, following the manufacturer’s instructions. The heat will fuse the tape to the fabric, creating a temporary or permanent hem.
- Securing with Stitching (Optional): For added durability, you can sew along the edge of the hem after fusing.
Tips for Hemming Spandex Successfully
- Practice on Scraps: Always practice your hemming technique on scraps of spandex fabric before working on your final garment. This will help you fine-tune your machine settings and get a feel for the fabric.
- Use a Walking Foot or Teflon Foot: These presser feet help feed the fabric evenly, preventing it from slipping and stretching.
- Stretch the Fabric Slightly: Gently stretch the fabric as you sew to prevent puckering. Avoid over-stretching, which can distort the hem.
- Use a Stabilizer: If you are working with a very stretchy or delicate spandex fabric, use a lightweight fusible stabilizer to prevent stretching and distortion.
- Press Carefully: Use a low to medium heat setting and a pressing cloth to protect the fabric. Avoid over-pressing, which can damage the spandex fibers.
- Be Patient: Hemming spandex can be challenging, so be patient and take your time. Rushing the process can lead to mistakes and a poorly finished hem.
- Choose the Right Technique: Consider the weight and stretch of your spandex and the desired look of the hem when choosing a hemming technique.
- Test Your Tension: Make sure that your tension is not too loose or too tight. Tight tension can cause puckering in the fabric. Looser tension might cause the thread to loop or break.
Troubleshooting Common Hemming Problems
- Puckering: Puckering is a common problem when hemming spandex. It is usually caused by the stitches being too tight or the fabric being stretched too much. Try using a zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch, and gently stretch the fabric as you sew.
- Stretching: Spandex can stretch easily, especially when sewing. Use a walking foot or Teflon foot to help prevent stretching. You can also use a stabilizer to prevent the fabric from stretching.
- Skipped Stitches: Skipped stitches can occur if the needle is not the correct type or size for the fabric. Use a ballpoint or stretch needle, and make sure the needle is sharp.
- Uneven Hem: An uneven hem can be caused by inaccurate measurements or uneven sewing. Use a measuring tape and ruler to ensure accurate measurements, and sew slowly and carefully to maintain an even stitch line.
By following these tips and techniques, you can successfully hem spandex fabric and create professional-looking garments that fit and flatter. The key is to understand the unique properties of spandex, use the right tools and materials, and take your time. With practice and patience, you’ll be hemming spandex like a pro in no time!
What makes hemming spandex different from hemming other fabrics?
Spandex, also known as elastane or Lycra, is a highly elastic fabric. This inherent stretch makes it challenging to hem using traditional methods that work well on non-stretch fabrics like cotton or linen. Standard hemming techniques often result in puckering, wavy hems, or broken stitches when applied to spandex because the fabric stretches unevenly during the sewing process.
Furthermore, the tight weave of spandex can cause needles to skip stitches or even break if the wrong type of needle and thread are used. The fabric’s tendency to roll and slip also makes it difficult to maintain a consistent hemline width without proper preparation and careful handling. Specialized techniques and tools are necessary to achieve a professional-looking and durable hem on spandex.
What type of sewing machine needle is best for hemming spandex?
Using the correct needle is crucial for successful spandex hemming. A ballpoint or stretch needle is highly recommended. These needles have a rounded tip that pushes the fabric fibers aside rather than piercing them, which helps prevent skipped stitches and fabric damage. A needle size of 75/11 or 80/12 is typically suitable for most spandex fabrics.
The slight rounding of the ballpoint or stretch needle minimizes the risk of creating runs or ladders in the fabric, which is a common problem when using a sharp needle on stretchy materials. Be sure to check your sewing machine manual for specific needle recommendations and test the needle on a scrap piece of spandex before starting your project to ensure it works well with your chosen fabric.
What type of stitch is recommended for hemming spandex, and why?
A zigzag stitch or a stretch stitch is highly recommended for hemming spandex. These stitches provide the necessary flexibility to accommodate the fabric’s stretch without causing the thread to break or the hem to pucker. A narrow zigzag stitch with a short stitch length is often a good starting point, as it offers a balance between stretchiness and a clean appearance.
Stretch stitches, such as the lightning bolt stitch, are specifically designed for knit fabrics and offer even greater elasticity. These stitches create a strong and durable hem that can withstand repeated stretching and movement. Experiment with different stitch options on a scrap piece of your spandex fabric to determine which one provides the best combination of stretch, appearance, and durability for your project.
How can I prevent the hem from stretching out while sewing?
Stabilizing the hem edge is key to preventing stretching during sewing. Using a fusible interfacing designed for knits is an excellent option. A narrow strip of lightweight fusible tricot interfacing applied to the wrong side of the fabric along the hemline will provide added support and prevent the fabric from stretching out of shape as you sew.
Another effective technique is to use a walking foot on your sewing machine. A walking foot has feed dogs on both the top and bottom, which helps to grip the fabric evenly and prevent it from stretching or slipping during sewing. Also, avoid pulling or stretching the fabric while sewing; let the machine feed the fabric naturally to maintain a consistent hemline.
What’s the best way to measure and press a spandex hem?
Accurate measurement and proper pressing are essential for a professional-looking hem. Use a flexible measuring tape to accurately measure the desired hem depth. It’s best to mark the hemline with tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker on the wrong side of the fabric, ensuring the line is consistent around the entire garment.
When pressing a spandex hem, use a low to medium heat setting on your iron and always use a pressing cloth to protect the fabric from direct heat. Avoid holding the iron in one place for too long, as this can melt or distort the fibers. A steam iron can also be helpful for setting the hem without excessive heat. Gently press the hem in sections, lifting and repositioning the iron rather than sliding it across the fabric.
How do I handle curves or corners when hemming spandex?
Hemming curves and corners on spandex requires extra attention to detail. For curves, it’s beneficial to use a slightly shorter stitch length and ease the fabric around the curve as you sew, preventing any puckering or pulling. You might need to clip into the seam allowance on the curve to allow the fabric to lay flat.
For corners, carefully pivot the fabric at the corner point with the needle down, raise the presser foot, and rotate the fabric to continue sewing along the next side. Reinforce the corner with a few extra stitches, or consider mitering the corner for a cleaner finish. Practice these techniques on scrap fabric to perfect your approach before working on your garment.
Can I use a serger to hem spandex?
Yes, a serger, also known as an overlock machine, can be used to create a professional-looking and durable hem on spandex. A serger trims, sews, and overlocks the fabric edge in a single step, creating a clean and stretchy hem that’s ideal for knit fabrics. Using a differential feed setting on your serger is crucial to prevent wavy or stretched-out hems.
Experiment with different differential feed settings on a scrap piece of spandex until you achieve a flat and even hem. The rolled hem setting on a serger is also a popular choice for hemming lightweight spandex fabrics, creating a neat and decorative finish. Remember to use a needle and thread specifically designed for knit fabrics to ensure the best results.