How to Banish Orange Tones from Your Highlights: A Comprehensive Guide

Highlights are a fantastic way to add dimension and brightness to your hair. However, that dreaded orange or brassy tone can quickly ruin the look, leaving you feeling frustrated instead of fabulous. This article dives deep into why highlights turn orange and, more importantly, how to get rid of those unwanted warm hues and maintain salon-worthy hair at home.

Understanding Why Highlights Turn Orange

The appearance of orange tones in highlights, often referred to as brassiness, is a common issue that stems from the underlying pigments in your hair.

The Science Behind Brassy Hair

When hair is lightened, the bleaching process lifts the natural pigment. Darker hair contains a significant amount of red and orange pigment. When bleaching isn’t sufficient to lift past these warm tones, or if the hair’s natural warmth becomes exposed over time, orange or brassy shades appear. Think of it like peeling back layers of an onion – the darker layers are revealed first.

Factors Contributing to Brassy Highlights

Several factors can contribute to the development of orange tones in highlighted hair. Understanding these culprits is the first step in prevention and correction.

Improper Bleaching: Insufficient processing time or using a bleach that’s not strong enough for your hair type can leave behind unwanted orange tones. The darker your hair, the more crucial it is to use the appropriate developer volume and processing time.

Hard Water: Hard water contains high levels of minerals like calcium and magnesium. These minerals can deposit on the hair shaft, leading to buildup that can accentuate warm tones and make highlights appear brassy.

Sun Exposure: Prolonged exposure to the sun’s UV rays can oxidize hair, causing it to fade and reveal underlying warm pigments. This is particularly noticeable in lighter shades, including highlights.

Heat Styling: Frequent use of heat styling tools like flat irons and curling irons can damage the hair cuticle, making it more susceptible to color fade and brassiness.

Product Buildup: Certain hair products, especially those containing sulfates and silicones, can contribute to buildup that dulls highlights and enhances orange tones.

Effective Methods for Eliminating Orange Tones

Now that you understand the causes, let’s explore the most effective methods for neutralizing orange tones and restoring your highlights to their intended cool or neutral shade.

Purple Shampoo and Conditioners: Your First Line of Defense

Purple shampoo and conditioners are specially formulated with violet pigments that counteract yellow and orange tones in blonde and highlighted hair. The violet cancels out the warmth, resulting in a brighter, cooler appearance.

How to Use Purple Shampoo and Conditioner: Use purple shampoo and conditioner once or twice a week, or as needed. Apply the shampoo to wet hair, lather, and let it sit for 3-5 minutes before rinsing thoroughly. Follow with purple conditioner, leaving it on for a few minutes before rinsing. Be cautious not to overuse purple shampoo, as it can sometimes lead to a purplish or ashy cast, especially on very light blonde hair.

Choosing the Right Purple Shampoo: Look for sulfate-free formulas to avoid stripping the hair of moisture. Consider the intensity of the purple pigment – those with more intense pigmentation will provide stronger toning. Experiment with different brands to find one that works best for your hair.

Blue Shampoo: The Secret Weapon Against Orange

While purple shampoo is primarily designed to counteract yellow tones, blue shampoo is specifically formulated to neutralize orange tones. It works on the same principle of color theory, using blue pigments to cancel out orange.

When to Use Blue Shampoo: If your highlights are predominantly orange rather than yellow, blue shampoo will be more effective than purple shampoo. It’s also a great option for brunettes with caramel or bronze highlights that are prone to brassiness.

Application Tips: Apply blue shampoo to wet hair, focusing on the areas with the most noticeable orange tones. Leave it on for 3-5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. Follow with a moisturizing conditioner to prevent dryness.

Hair Toners: A More Potent Solution

Hair toners are a more powerful way to neutralize unwanted tones. They contain pigments that deposit color onto the hair, effectively canceling out brassiness and creating a more balanced shade.

Types of Hair Toners: Toners come in various forms, including demi-permanent colors, glosses, and at-home kits. Demi-permanent toners are a good option for those seeking a long-lasting solution, while glosses offer a temporary refresh.

Application Process: Applying a toner requires precision and attention to detail. It’s best to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Typically, you’ll mix the toner with a developer, apply it to damp hair, and let it process for the recommended time before rinsing. If you’re unsure about applying toner yourself, it’s best to consult a professional colorist.

Choosing the Right Toner Shade: Select a toner shade that complements your existing highlights and cancels out the unwanted orange tones. For orange tones, a toner with blue or ash undertones will be most effective.

DIY Hair Masks for Toning and Hydration

Creating your own hair masks can be a natural and effective way to tone your highlights and improve overall hair health.

Blueberry Mask: Blueberries contain natural blue pigments that can help to neutralize orange tones. Blend a cup of fresh blueberries with a tablespoon of coconut oil and a tablespoon of honey. Apply the mixture to your hair, focusing on the highlights, and let it sit for 30 minutes before rinsing.

Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse: Apple cider vinegar (ACV) can help to remove buildup and brighten highlights. Mix one part ACV with three parts water and use as a final rinse after shampooing.

Yogurt and Lemon Mask: Yogurt contains lactic acid, which can gently exfoliate the scalp and brighten hair. Lemon juice can help to lighten and brighten highlights. Mix half a cup of plain yogurt with the juice of half a lemon. Apply the mixture to your hair and let it sit for 20 minutes before rinsing. Be careful with lemon juice, as excessive use can dry out the hair.

Preventing Orange Tones in Highlights

Prevention is always better than cure. By taking proactive steps, you can minimize the likelihood of your highlights turning orange in the first place.

Protecting Hair from Sun Exposure

Just as sunscreen protects your skin from sun damage, hair products with UV protection can shield your highlights from fading and brassiness.

Using UV Protectant Sprays: Apply a UV protectant spray to your hair before spending time outdoors. Look for sprays that are specifically formulated for color-treated hair.

Wearing a Hat or Scarf: When possible, wear a hat or scarf to shield your hair from direct sunlight.

Avoiding Hard Water Damage

Hard water can wreak havoc on highlighted hair. Investing in a water softener or using a shower filter can make a significant difference.

Installing a Shower Filter: Shower filters remove minerals from the water, preventing them from depositing on your hair.

Using a Chelating Shampoo: Chelating shampoos are designed to remove mineral buildup from the hair. Use one periodically to keep your highlights bright and brass-free.

Minimizing Heat Styling

Heat styling can damage the hair cuticle and contribute to color fade. Reduce your use of heat styling tools and always use a heat protectant spray when you do.

Using Heat Protectant Sprays: Apply a heat protectant spray to your hair before using any heat styling tools.

Lowering Heat Settings: Use the lowest heat setting possible when styling your hair.

Air Drying: Allow your hair to air dry whenever possible to minimize heat damage.

Choosing the Right Hair Products

Selecting the right hair products is crucial for maintaining the health and color of your highlights.

Sulfate-Free Shampoos and Conditioners: Sulfates can strip the hair of moisture and cause color to fade. Opt for sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners.

Color-Safe Products: Use products that are specifically formulated for color-treated hair. These products are designed to be gentle and help to preserve your color.

Avoiding Products with Alcohol: Alcohol can dry out the hair and contribute to color fade. Avoid products that contain alcohol.

Maintaining Salon-Worthy Highlights

Maintaining your highlights requires ongoing care and attention. By following these tips, you can keep your highlights looking fresh and vibrant between salon visits.

Regular Touch-Ups

Schedule regular touch-up appointments with your stylist to maintain the health and color of your highlights. This will help to prevent brassiness and keep your highlights looking their best.

Deep Conditioning Treatments

Deep conditioning treatments can help to hydrate and nourish your hair, preventing dryness and damage. Use a deep conditioning mask once a week or as needed.

Professional Gloss Treatments

Consider getting a professional gloss treatment between touch-up appointments to refresh your color and add shine. Gloss treatments can help to neutralize unwanted tones and keep your highlights looking vibrant.

By understanding the causes of orange tones in highlights and implementing the strategies outlined in this article, you can successfully banish brassiness and maintain beautiful, salon-worthy hair. Remember, consistency is key, and with the right approach, you can enjoy vibrant, stunning highlights that complement your personal style.

Why do my highlights turn orange (brassy)?

The primary reason highlights turn orange is due to the underlying warm pigments in your hair being exposed during the bleaching process. Hair naturally contains red, orange, and yellow tones. When you lift the hair color to achieve highlights, you’re essentially stripping away the darker pigments. Lighter highlights often reveal the orange or reddish-orange pigments that are more resistant to being lifted, especially if the bleaching process wasn’t strong enough or left on long enough.

Another contributing factor can be environmental. Sun exposure, hard water (which contains minerals that deposit on the hair), and chlorine in swimming pools can all contribute to brassiness. These elements can oxidize the hair, causing the orange tones to become more pronounced over time. Regularly using heat styling tools without proper heat protection can also damage the hair and exacerbate brassiness.

What’s the difference between a toner and a purple shampoo?

Toners are professional chemical treatments applied to the hair after bleaching to neutralize unwanted warm tones. They deposit pigment (typically purple or blue) to counteract the orange or yellow hues, creating a cooler, more neutral blonde. Toners are usually mixed with a developer and left on the hair for a specific amount of time, offering a more potent and targeted color correction than purple shampoo. The results generally last for several weeks.

Purple shampoo, on the other hand, is a shampoo infused with purple pigment. It works by depositing small amounts of purple dye onto the hair with each wash, counteracting brassiness and brightening blonde tones. It’s a maintenance product designed to be used regularly to prolong the effects of toner or prevent brassiness from developing in the first place. It is less potent than a toner and requires consistent use to see results.

How often should I use purple shampoo?

The frequency of purple shampoo use depends on several factors, including the severity of your brassiness, the porosity of your hair, and the strength of the purple shampoo itself. Generally, using it one to three times a week is a good starting point. Pay attention to how your hair responds and adjust the frequency accordingly. Overusing purple shampoo can lead to a purple or lavender tint, especially on porous hair.

If you notice your hair starting to look dull or feels dry, reduce the frequency of use. It’s also important to alternate purple shampoo with a moisturizing shampoo to prevent dryness and maintain healthy hair. If you’re unsure, consult with your hairstylist to determine the best usage schedule for your specific hair type and color.

Can I use a toner at home?

Yes, you can use a toner at home, but it requires careful consideration and research. Toners involve mixing chemicals and applying them to your hair, so it’s crucial to understand the process and potential risks. Choose a toner specifically formulated for at-home use and carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions. It’s best to start with a shade lighter than you think you need, as it’s easier to add more tone than to remove it.

Consider doing a strand test before applying toner to your entire head to ensure you achieve the desired result and avoid unwanted color changes. If you’re unsure or uncomfortable with the process, it’s always best to consult a professional hairstylist. They can assess your hair’s condition and recommend the best toner and application technique to achieve your desired blonde.

What other products can help banish orange tones besides purple shampoo?

Besides purple shampoo, other color-depositing products can help neutralize orange tones. Blue shampoo is specifically formulated to counteract orange and red brassiness, often a better choice for very warm-toned blondes than purple shampoo. Similarly, blue conditioners and hair masks can provide a more intense toning effect while also conditioning and hydrating the hair.

Hair glosses and glazes, both clear and color-depositing, can enhance shine and tone down brassiness. These are usually applied in the salon but some at-home versions are available. Look for glosses with cool or ash tones to counteract warmth. Additionally, using a clarifying shampoo periodically can remove mineral buildup that contributes to brassiness, helping to maintain a cooler blonde tone.

How can I prevent brassiness from happening in the first place?

Preventing brassiness starts with proper hair care practices. Use a high-quality shampoo and conditioner formulated for color-treated hair. These products are designed to be gentle and help maintain your hair color. Limit your exposure to direct sunlight, as UV rays can oxidize the hair and cause brassiness. Wear a hat or use a UV protectant spray when spending time outdoors.

Protect your hair from hard water and chlorine. Consider using a shower filter to remove minerals from your water supply. Before swimming, wet your hair and apply a leave-in conditioner or hair oil to create a barrier against chlorine absorption. Also, minimize heat styling and always use a heat protectant spray when using styling tools like flat irons or curling irons.

When should I see a professional to fix my brassy highlights?

If your DIY attempts to fix brassy highlights are unsuccessful or if the brassiness is severe and uneven, it’s time to seek professional help. A hairstylist can assess your hair’s condition, identify the underlying cause of the brassiness, and create a customized plan to correct the color without causing further damage. They have access to professional-grade toners, color correctors, and expertise to achieve optimal results.

Additionally, if your hair is damaged or brittle from previous coloring processes, a professional can provide reparative treatments and recommend a gentler approach to correcting the brassiness. Attempting to fix significant color problems at home can sometimes lead to further damage or uneven color, so consulting a professional is often the safest and most effective solution.