Hair color transformations can be exciting, but sometimes the result isn’t quite what we envisioned. If you started with brown hair and ended up with unwanted orange tones, you’re not alone. This phenomenon, often referred to as “brassiness,” is a common concern for those who lighten or color their hair at home or even in salons. Understanding why it happens is the first step to preventing and correcting it.
The Science Behind Brassiness: Unmasking Underlying Pigments
To understand why brown hair turns orange, we need to delve into the science of hair pigmentation. Hair color comes from melanin, and there are two main types: eumelanin (responsible for brown and black tones) and pheomelanin (responsible for red and yellow tones).
Brown hair contains both eumelanin and pheomelanin, but eumelanin is typically dominant. When you lighten brown hair, whether with bleach or hair dye, you’re essentially oxidizing these melanin pigments. Eumelanin breaks down relatively easily, while pheomelanin is more stubborn.
As the lightening process progresses, the eumelanin breaks down first, revealing the underlying pheomelanin. This is why hair often goes through stages of red, orange, and yellow before reaching a desired lighter shade. If the lightening process isn’t done correctly or isn’t strong enough, the orange tones can remain, resulting in brassy hair.
Understanding Hair Levels and Underlying Pigment
Hair color is classified by levels, ranging from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde). Each level has its own underlying pigment that is revealed during the lightening process.
Brown hair typically falls between levels 2 and 5. When lightening these levels, the underlying pigment is usually red or orange. So, if you’re lifting your hair several levels, it’s almost inevitable that you’ll encounter these warm tones.
Common Causes of Orange Tones in Brown Hair
Several factors can contribute to your brown hair turning orange. Identifying the cause is crucial for choosing the right solution.
Insufficient Lightening Power
One of the most frequent culprits is using a lightening product that isn’t strong enough to lift your hair to the desired level. If you’re trying to go several shades lighter in one step, you may need a higher volume developer or a stronger bleaching agent.
Using a low-volume developer might not adequately lift the melanin in your hair, leaving the orange undertones exposed. Similarly, if the bleaching process is cut short, the underlying warmth may not be fully neutralized.
Improper Application Techniques
Even with the right products, improper application can lead to uneven lifting and brassiness. Uneven application, such as missing sections or not saturating the hair thoroughly, can cause some areas to lift more than others, resulting in a patchy, orange result.
Starting the application at the roots is also crucial. Since the roots are closest to the scalp and generate heat, they tend to lift faster than the rest of the hair. Applying the lightener to the roots last ensures a more even lift throughout the hair.
Hard Water and Mineral Buildup
Hard water, which contains high concentrations of minerals like calcium and magnesium, can deposit these minerals onto your hair shaft. These minerals can interfere with the lightening process and also contribute to brassiness over time.
The minerals can react with hair products, causing a buildup that makes your hair appear dull and orange. Using a clarifying shampoo regularly can help remove mineral buildup and prevent it from affecting your hair color.
Sun Exposure and Environmental Factors
Exposure to the sun’s UV rays can also contribute to brassiness. The sun can oxidize the hair, causing the artificial color to fade and the underlying warm tones to become more prominent.
Pollution and other environmental factors can also deposit impurities on the hair, leading to a dull, orange hue. Protecting your hair from the sun with hats or UV protectant sprays can help prevent sun-induced brassiness.
Using the Wrong Products for Maintenance
After coloring your hair, using the wrong shampoos and conditioners can strip the color and expose the underlying warmth. Products containing sulfates, for instance, are known to fade hair color quickly.
Using products specifically formulated for color-treated hair can help prolong the color and prevent brassiness. These products are typically sulfate-free and contain ingredients that help deposit pigment and neutralize warm tones.
Preventing Orange Tones in the First Place
Prevention is always better than cure. Taking proactive steps can significantly reduce the likelihood of your brown hair turning orange after lightening.
Choosing the Right Lightening Products
Select a lightening product that is appropriate for your hair level and the desired result. Read reviews and consult with a professional to determine the right volume developer and bleaching agent for your hair type and color.
Consider using a toner along with bleach. Toners are formulated to neutralize unwanted warm tones and deposit cool pigments. Using a toner after bleaching can help achieve a more balanced and natural-looking result.
Proper Application Techniques
Apply the lightening product evenly and thoroughly, ensuring that all strands are saturated. Start with the roots last to avoid over-processing.
Follow the instructions on the product packaging carefully, paying attention to the recommended processing time. Do not exceed the recommended time, as this can damage your hair.
Protecting Your Hair from Environmental Factors
Shield your hair from the sun with hats or scarves, especially during peak sunlight hours. Use UV protectant sprays to create a barrier against the sun’s damaging rays.
Rinse your hair with filtered water if you live in an area with hard water. Consider installing a shower filter to remove minerals and impurities from the water.
Using Color-Safe Hair Products
Invest in sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners designed for color-treated hair. These products will help prolong the color and prevent brassiness.
Use purple shampoo or blue shampoo regularly to neutralize unwanted warm tones. Purple shampoo is best for yellow tones, while blue shampoo is more effective for orange tones.
Correcting Existing Orange Tones: Solutions for Brassy Hair
If your brown hair has already turned orange, don’t despair! There are several ways to correct the brassiness and achieve your desired hair color.
Toning Your Hair
Toning is a popular and effective way to neutralize orange tones. Toners contain pigments that counteract the warmth and create a more balanced color.
Choose a toner that is specifically designed for orange tones, typically one with blue or violet pigments. Apply the toner evenly to your hair, following the instructions on the product packaging.
Using Blue or Purple Shampoo
Blue and purple shampoos are color-depositing shampoos that help neutralize warm tones. Blue shampoo is more effective for orange tones, while purple shampoo is better for yellow tones.
Use the shampoo once or twice a week, or as needed, to maintain a cool, balanced tone. Be careful not to overuse the shampoo, as it can sometimes leave a bluish or purplish cast on your hair.
Hair Gloss Treatments
Hair gloss treatments can help refresh your hair color and add shine. They can also be formulated to neutralize brassiness and enhance cool tones.
Gloss treatments are typically applied in a salon, but there are also at-home gloss products available. Consult with a stylist to determine the best gloss treatment for your hair.
Professional Color Correction
For severe cases of brassiness or uneven color, it’s best to seek professional help. A skilled colorist can assess your hair and create a customized color correction plan.
Professional color correction may involve multiple steps, such as stripping the existing color, re-lightening the hair, and toning it to the desired shade.
DIY Remedies and Natural Solutions (Proceed with Caution)
While professional treatments are generally the most effective, some DIY remedies may help reduce brassiness. However, it’s important to proceed with caution and do a strand test first, as these remedies can sometimes be unpredictable.
Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse
Apple cider vinegar (ACV) can help remove buildup and balance the pH of your hair. Mix ACV with water in a 1:3 ratio and use it as a final rinse after shampooing. ACV is known to help remove mineral buildup that can contribute to brassiness.
Lemon Juice
Lemon juice has lightening properties and can help brighten dull hair. Dilute lemon juice with water and apply it to your hair. Sit in the sun for a short period of time to enhance the lightening effect. However, use lemon juice sparingly, as it can be drying.
Tomato Paste Mask
Tomato paste contains red pigments that can help neutralize green tones, which are sometimes present when trying to correct orange hair. Apply tomato paste to your hair, let it sit for 20-30 minutes, and then rinse thoroughly.
Remember that DIY remedies may not provide the same level of control and predictability as professional treatments. It’s always best to consult with a hair stylist before trying any home remedies.
When to Seek Professional Help
While some cases of brassiness can be corrected at home, there are situations where professional help is essential.
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Severe Color Damage: If your hair is damaged from over-processing or multiple coloring treatments, attempting to correct the brassiness yourself could worsen the damage. A professional can assess the condition of your hair and recommend the safest course of action.
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Uneven Color: If the orange tones are uneven or patchy, it can be difficult to achieve a consistent result at home. A professional colorist has the expertise and tools to create a more even and balanced color.
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Complex Color Correction: If you’ve tried multiple DIY remedies without success, or if you’re attempting a significant color change, it’s best to seek professional help. Complex color corrections require specialized knowledge and skills.
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Unsure About the Process: If you’re unsure about any aspect of the coloring process, it’s always better to err on the side of caution and consult with a professional. A hair stylist can provide personalized advice and guidance based on your hair type and color goals.
Correcting and preventing orange tones in brown hair requires understanding the science of hair pigmentation, identifying the underlying causes of brassiness, and taking proactive steps to protect your hair. By following these tips and seeking professional help when needed, you can achieve the beautiful, balanced hair color you desire. Remember that patience and consistency are key to maintaining your desired color and preventing future brassiness.
Why does brown hair turn orange?
Brown hair turns orange, often referred to as brassiness, because of underlying warm pigments being revealed. Natural brown hair contains red, orange, and yellow undertones. When you lighten your hair, whether through sun exposure, coloring, or chemical treatments, the darker pigments are stripped away. However, the warm undertones are more resistant and remain, leading to the undesirable orange hue.
Furthermore, environmental factors play a role. Hard water, rich in minerals like iron and copper, can deposit these minerals onto the hair shaft. These minerals then oxidize, contributing to the orange or brassy appearance. Frequent washing with harsh shampoos can also strip away the hair’s natural oils, making it more susceptible to absorbing minerals and accelerating the oxidation process that leads to brassiness.
What is brassiness and how does it affect brown hair?
Brassiness refers to the unwanted warm tones, primarily orange and yellow, that appear in brown hair. These tones emerge when the darker, cooler pigments of the hair are lost or faded, revealing the underlying warmth. This is a common issue, especially for those who have lightened their brown hair or have previously colored it.
Brassiness affects brown hair by altering its overall tone and appearance. Instead of the cool, rich brown that was initially desired, the hair takes on an unflattering orange or yellow cast. This can make the hair look dull, damaged, and uneven in color. Consequently, many individuals seek methods to neutralize these brassy tones and restore their hair to its intended color.
What are the main causes of brassiness in brown hair?
The primary cause of brassiness in brown hair is the lightening process. Whether it’s through bleaching, highlighting, or even repeated exposure to the sun, the process of lifting the hair’s natural pigment exposes the underlying warm tones. Darker hair inherently has a stronger red and orange undertone, which becomes more visible as the cooler, darker pigments are removed.
Other significant causes include environmental factors and improper hair care. Hard water, which is abundant in minerals like iron and copper, can deposit these minerals onto the hair, leading to oxidation and brassiness. Furthermore, using harsh shampoos and styling products that strip the hair’s natural oils can accelerate the fading of cool tones and the emergence of warmth.
How can I prevent my brown hair from turning orange?
Preventing brassiness starts with protecting your hair from excessive lightening. If you’re coloring your hair, choose a shade that’s close to your natural color to minimize the need for harsh chemicals. Also, consider using a color-depositing shampoo or conditioner formulated for brown hair to help maintain the cool tones and prevent the warm undertones from surfacing.
Furthermore, shielding your hair from environmental damage is crucial. Use a clarifying shampoo periodically to remove mineral buildup from hard water. Invest in a water filter for your showerhead to minimize mineral exposure. Finally, protect your hair from sun exposure by wearing a hat or using a UV protectant spray, as the sun can naturally lighten your hair and contribute to brassiness.
What products can I use to combat brassiness in brown hair?
Purple shampoo and conditioner are essential tools for combating brassiness in brown hair. These products contain purple pigments that neutralize yellow and orange tones, effectively counteracting brassiness and restoring the desired cool brown hue. Look for products specifically formulated for brown hair, as those intended for blonde hair may be too strong and result in a purple tint.
Toning glosses and hair masks are also effective options. Toning glosses deposit pigment onto the hair, helping to balance the color and neutralize unwanted warmth. Hair masks provide deep conditioning while also depositing toning pigments, improving the hair’s overall health and appearance. Choose products that contain blue or green pigments to neutralize orange tones specifically.
How often should I use purple shampoo on my brown hair?
The frequency of using purple shampoo depends on the severity of brassiness and your hair’s individual needs. As a general guideline, use it once or twice a week, alternating with your regular shampoo. Overuse of purple shampoo can lead to a purple or ashy tint, especially on lighter shades of brown or dry, porous hair.
Observe your hair after each use and adjust the frequency accordingly. If you notice a purple tint, reduce the usage to once every two weeks or discontinue use temporarily. If your hair is still showing signs of brassiness, you can gradually increase the frequency, but always prioritize monitoring your hair’s response to avoid over-toning.
When should I consult a professional hairstylist about brassy brown hair?
Consult a professional hairstylist when you’re unsure about how to correct brassiness or if over-the-counter products aren’t providing the desired results. A stylist can assess your hair’s condition, identify the specific causes of the brassiness, and recommend a personalized treatment plan. They can also perform professional toning treatments or color corrections that are more effective and precise than at-home solutions.
Furthermore, seek professional help if you’ve experienced significant damage or breakage due to chemical treatments or if you’re planning a drastic color change. A hairstylist can help you protect your hair’s health and achieve your desired color without causing further damage. They can also provide guidance on maintaining your hair’s color and preventing future brassiness.